FOAK: Floor varnish

Paging the font. I am about to sand my top floor and need a decent
hardwearing varnish that will stand up to use in a bathroom as well as
the bedrooms and landing. The local proper paint dealer reckons Dulux
Diamond Glaze is the way to go.

Any opinions?

 

I seem to remember my old man (who was somewhat in the trade) using
Marine/Yacht quality varnish. Not cheap at RRP, but he used to get it
trade, which made it much more affordable.

 

I don't know why, but the thought of Dulux making the best doesn't sit
well. I'd fire up Yell & call around a few chandlers & timber yards for
a second opinion.

 

Absolutely

http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com...ona-mega.htm?gclid=CNDYs-29yZ8CFdoB4wodCSUJKA

Bonatech stuff is the dogs.
Mega looks like very skimmed milk but it does a magnificent job.
We have it in our kitchen, gets heavy wear and does not go white if wetted.
Crosslinker available for mixing, not sure what that adds, bonding,
durability maybe.
The kit works!

--
R100RT
Aprilia Pegaso 650 IE "The Flying Mythos"
Formerly: James Captain, A10, C15, B25, Dnepr M16 solo, R80/7, R100RT
(green!)
www.davidhowardjeweller.co.uk

 

Wot 'e sed.

 

We did our floors back in 2008 using that. It's a funny sort of white
colour but dries to a clear finish. I haven't any complaints - still
looks great on the bits we haven't torn apart to build our extension.

The varnish isn't the important thing, though: it's what the boards are
like and the care you take over the sanding that makes the difference.

 

Will it happily go onto stained wood?

 

Fine if you want to land on your arse when the bathroom floor gets a
tad wet. You need a non-slip finish.
The easy^Wpikey way to do this is to stir a cup of fine sand into each
litre of your chosen varnish before application.
The same applies to any area where mats, carpets, etc will be laid
on top of a varnish.

Slipping in a bathroom offers plenty of choice of things to crack
heads on, slipping at the top of the stairs can also have interesting
results.

 

Is that finished yet?

Boards are in good condition with slivers in the gaps. I'm staying out
of the way of the dust, chemicals and finding somewhere to sleep
downstairs mess, so he'll be able to spend all weekend being
perfectionist about the finish.

 

Ha ha no. Things kind of ground to a halt for a few months at the end of
last year due to various issues including lack of organisation and
weather and crap builders and voluntary redundancy. But we had the
rainwater drainage and the drive done this week, windows should be going
in in Feb, and that means we can crack on with first fix plumbing &
electrics and getting the stairs in, so yay.

You'll want earplugs.

 

Osmo Polyx-Oil - expensive but worth it - it's a wax/oil so seeps in
which doesn't chip or flake and has survived 2 years of high traffic
through our house

 

I've used this a few times and it does the job.

 

On 29/01/2010 10:57, M J Carley wrote

Danish Oil. Can be reapplied to areas without "seeing the join" like you
would with varnish.

From what I understand, the acres of wood floor at Copenhagen Airport
are done with Danish Oil, and I think that counts as hard wearing in
anyone's language.

Steve

 

If you're going for a stained finish, be careful how you apply it. For
example, put a brushload down, pick up a second brushload, start it a
little before where you ended the last one and you could find that the
small area where you've got in effect two coats (even if just a few
seconds apart) looks darker than the rest. You won't get rid of that,
short of sanding it back down and starting again.

 

Lambswool rollers!

 

Now he tells me ...

 

I was only watching you understand

 

Your OH must have the patience of a saint.

I'm 150 miles of avoidance away. The finish is still not to his
standards.

 

Fortunately we're both to blame...