FOAK: Copper Grease

Is it a good idea to use this on exhaust studs and bolts if the exhaust
header clamps are held with spring washers? Or will my exhaust just fall
off and be squashed by a following Scania?

 

gazzafield wrote

The rule used to be that exhaust nuts and bolts were done up dry.

 

That's my thoughts. But I was just thinking this as a possibility as they
are usually a bastard to move again later as they usually haven't been
touched for donkey's. Just wondered if anyone had tried similar.

 

gazzafield wrote

Why would you be considering taking it all apart again? Faffing about
with an exhaust system once is enough Shirley?

Most of us I would imagine.

 

I've always used it on manifold threads on cages and bikes. So has my
mate who is a car mechanic - for that very reason that when you next
need to work on them they undo without any problem.

 

gazzafield expressed the following:

If you use something with a low co-efficient of friction, the tendency
is actually to over-tighten if you are working to a torque value
determined without any lubricant.

*Ahem* ....sorry, what where we talking about?

 

I always use copper grease on manifold bolts, but I don't tighten the
bolts up as tight as they used to be because the grease gives you a
false "reading" and it's easy to strip the threads.

I tighten them up about two-thirds of a grunt, run the bike, and if it's
not blowing leave it, and if any manifold is blowing, tighten up a
milligrunt at a time until it stops.

 

That's what I do and then only a touch. Anything else gets degreased and
loctite depending on what it is.

 

I'd like to agree with the learned gentlemen above - and then add two
words: brass nuts.

 

AOL and generously although for stainless steel fasteners one would *of
course* use
http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/details.php?cat=Rocol Anti-Seize&product=1364
or similar

'Hog

 

I wonder if that comes in less expensive sizes?

 

Rocol only do it in the 500g tubs you pikey. They also do a similarly
priced product "797" which is aerospace grade. Does the team bike get
loaded that highly!

'Hog

 

Cold outside, is it?

 

'Hog expressed the following:

They're both used in aerospace (hence the reference to MSRR 4008 which
is the Rolls-Royce Material spec), the difference is that 797 has a
lower co-efficient of friction than the anti-seize stainless. The latter
was specifically developed to have the same co-efficient of friction as
clean engine oil and is the one we use out of preference. It's also more
environmentally friendly than the 797.

The problem with the anti-seize stainless is that it contains graphite
which will promote corrosion of aluminium. In the applications I usually
specifiy it for at work, the graphite doesn't last very long and nor
would any free aluminium.

Needless to say, I get free samples.

 

mubbueth expressed the following:

He is, but I wouldn't bother putting greases on rusting studs. I'd
replace them, or at the very least clean them, and use Rocol 251T from
new, taking care not to get any on the aluminium parts.

 

I used copperslip when I installed the new Beemer exhaust and its
still there... Does that count?
--
O
1 Black, shortly to undergo extensive surgery.
1 Red, undergoing lightweight surgery. -----
1 Blue, for Power-Ranger baiting. | o |
Numbers ... | o |
Stuff ... | ooo |
Life ... -----

 

What? The copperslip is still there?

 

So you are saying that for bike use, with lots of ally around, 797 is
the dogs?

'Hog

 

'Hog expressed the following:

No, that's got graphite in it too. IIRC It's a nickel and graphite
mixture in a petroleum jelly/mineral oil carrier. The anti-seize
stainless (or 251T as we know it), is Calcium fluoride (about 50%) and
graphite in a oil/polymer mix. I may have mixed up the carriers, but who
cares.

 

So for bike/ally use good old Copaslip is the dogs?

'Hog