FOAK: Caliper question

I was trying to remove the broken stub of a bleed nipple from the rear
caliper on the GS at the weekend. Drilled the middle to get to clean metal
and used an EZ-out to try and remove the remains but the tip snapped off and
is now firmly fixed in the bottom. It's chewed up two titanium coated drill
bits in a pillar drill already - any ideas what I can use to get the bit of
EZ-out out or is the caliper now well and truly knackered?

All is not lost as I have sourced another off of E-bay and I have a good one
off of my donor GS. Just seems a shame ot write of this caliper as it was
otherwise pretty tidy.

 

Spark eroder. A good toolmakers should have one. Only way to be honest

JB

 

Er, "titanium coated"? I'm not surprised they got chewed up.
Maybe you should try a tungsten dremel bit, works for me.

 

Probably TiN (titanimu nitride) coated; looks gold in colour. Still HSS
underneath though which is not hard enough for snapped off EZouts. Dremel
with diamond bits can work ok, but spark erosion is the way forward.

JB

 

They'll be the ones, they cut through cast iron without too much hassle and
just about anything else I've thrown at them. Hardly made a dent in the EZ
out though.

 

good to see the EZ-out performing its primary function!


HAMMER:
Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a
kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object
we are trying to hit.

MECHANIC'S KNIFE:
Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons
delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes
containing seats and motorcycle jackets.

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL:
Normally used for spinning steel pop rivets in their holes until you die
of old age, but it also works great for drilling mounting holes in
fenders just above the brake line that goes to the rear wheel.

PLIERS:
Used to round off bolt heads.

HACKSAW:
One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It
transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the
more you attempt to influence it's course, the more dismal your future
becomes.

VISE-GRIPS:
Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can
also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXY-ACETYLENE TORCH:
Used almost entirely for setting various flammable objects in your
garage on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside a brake drum
you're trying to get the bearing race out of.

WHITWORTH SOCKETS:
Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are
now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 inch socket you've
been searching for, for the last 15 minutes.

DRILL PRESS:
A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar
stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings
your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted
part you were drying.

WIRE WHEEL:
Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under the
workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and
hard-earned guitar calluses from your fingers in about the time it takes
you to say "Ouch....". Thrown wires have been known to remove eyesight
permanently.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK:
Used for lowering a motorcycle to the ground after you have installed
your new front disc brake setup, trapping the jack handle firmly under
the front fender.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4:
Used for levering a motorcycle upward off a hydraulic jack.

TWEEZERS:
A tool for removing wood splinters.

PHONE:
Tool for calling your neighbor to see if he has another hydraulic floor
jack.

GASKET SCRAPER:
Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise. Used
mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot. All scrapers should be
inspected before making sandwiches.

E-Z OUT, BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR:
A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times harder than any
known drill bit.

TIMING LIGHT:
A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup.

TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST:
A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of ground straps and brake
lines you may have forgotten to disconnect.

1/2" x 16"-INCH SCREWDRIVER:
A large motor mount prying tool that inexplicably has an accurately
machined screwdriver tip on the end opposing the handle.

BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER:
A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from a car battery to the
inside of your toolbox after determining that your battery is dead as a
doornail, just as you thought.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS:
See hacksaw.

TROUBLE LIGHT:
The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a
good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin", which is not otherwise
found under motorcycles at night. Health benefits aside, its main
purpose is to consume light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm
Howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the
Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is some-what
misleading. Many folks can be found shaking these tools as the light
goes on and off.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER:
Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and
splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as name implies, to round
off Phillips screw heads. (Note: some models are designed to round
themselves off in order to save screws)

AIR COMPRESSOR:
A machine used to collect water from the outside air and attempt to mix
it with paint. Some say that it is a machine that takes energy
produced in a coal-burning power plant hundreds of miles away and
transforms that into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago
Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last tightened 50 years
ago by someone someplace.....and rounds them nicely off.

PRY BAR:
A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you
needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER:
A tool used to cut hoses 1/2 inch too short.

TORQUE WRENCH:
A sophisticated tool to test the strength of various fasteners and
threaded joints.

Arc Welder:
A device that produces an electrical short that allows 'welding rods' to
be stuck to the surface until they glow red. The operator wears a hood
he cannot see out of unless the short is active.

Tubing Benders:
These come in various designs with the main purpose being to bend a
perfectly straight piece of steel tubing into various shapes that are
good for absolutely nothing.

Power Band saws:
A device used to destroy small circular shaped metal bands with teeth on
one side of them.

Cordless Drills and various cordless electric tools:
Developed to enhance the profit and loss statements of the battery industry.

Chuck Keys:
One of the most commonly lost tools. NOT made by the same companies who
design chuck key holders.

Torx drivers:
Formerly the mystery tool to install or remove like-named mysterious
fasteners. These are slowly being phased out as new mystery fasteners
have been developed.

Tool boxes:
A place to store tools that you never need.

 

fulliautomatix wrote

<snip>

Very amusing, where did you nick that from?

 

Tis

Can't remember...might've been here

 

c.1978

 

Fucksake; that was a ginge when Ginge was a ginge in his mother's eye.

 

message

Can you not forget about the bleed nipple (fill the hole with araldite and paint
it?)
and fit one of those combined banjo/bleed nipple thingys?

Steve

 

You'd have absolutely no guarantee the araldite has taken up a good
thread profile. The idea is good, if weld fill is used instead.