Fail safe - Clutch

Discussion in 'Australian Motorcycles' started by Peter, Jan 17, 2011.

  1. Peter

    Peter Guest

    :) That and others have answered the first question.
    Only done a little over 30k on the bike.
    I have also been told lube on the cables help gunk stick and is not a good
    idea?
     
    Peter, Jan 18, 2011
    #21
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  2. Peter

    Theo Bekkers Guest

    Who told you that?
    I regularly lubed the cable ends on my Cali 1100 but it broke in the middle
    at 150,000 kms. The second cable was still on it when I traded it at
    220,000.
    My 850T3 was sold with the original cable after nine years and 110,000. My
    Cali II only did 70,000 in the nine years I had it and never broke a cable.
    In my defence I also did 70,000 on the deadly treadly in that same period.

    Theo
     
    Theo Bekkers, Jan 18, 2011
    #22
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  3. Clutch cables practically never break in the middle - they break at the
    bottom (less commonly) or the top (most commonly). A frequent culprit is
    a burr or other obstruction inside the lever that prevents the knuckle
    at the end of the cable from rotating freely. This forces the cable to
    bend more than it should, and eventually it shears at the point of
    maximum bending, which is usually a little way away from the knuckle.

    I doubt lubrication would help much in such circumstances. Avoiding
    holding the clutch disengaged would be more likely to extend the cable
    life. The lubrication regime for my bike (Kawasaki) does not include
    lubricating the clutch cable.

    The only time I've ever had a clutch cable break, the bike had done
    120,000km.
     
    Andrew McKenna, Jan 18, 2011
    #23
  4. Right, spoil my beautiful theories why don't you! Mind you, 150,000
    sounds like a respectable life for a clutch cable.
     
    Andrew McKenna, Jan 18, 2011
    #24
  5. Peter

    Nev.. Guest

    Yeah, you only ever need a clutch for hill-starts ... and U-eys.

    Nev..
     
    Nev.., Jan 18, 2011
    #25
  6. In aus.motorcycles on 18 Jan 2011 02:50:15 GMT
    The cables themselves don't need that much lubing if they aren't
    kinked and modern ones don't because they tend to be nylon lined.

    But you shuold regularly grease the cable nipples. I went through
    cables a lot till I learned that little trick. A bit of lube on the
    nipples (calm down you lot!) at both ends when you do your oil change
    makes a big difference in cable life.

    Plus it means you catch cable strands breaking before it's a real
    problem, and you have incentive to check clutch adjustment.

    Zebee
     
    Zebee Johnstone, Jan 18, 2011
    #26
  7. Peter

    Theo Bekkers Guest

    Yeah, my fault. I was too lazy to lube the inner.

    Theo
     
    Theo Bekkers, Jan 18, 2011
    #27
  8. Peter

    atec77 Guest

    ewww
     
    atec77, Jan 18, 2011
    #28
  9. Peter

    Lars Chance Guest

    Educate me; what sort of off-road riding requires clutch-slipping Marty?
     
    Lars Chance, Jan 18, 2011
    #29
  10. Peter

    Lars Chance Guest

    I dunno about you but I can get down to some very slow speeds in first
    gear without clutch-slipping. It U-eys are a problem for you, ride down
    until it's flat then stop the bike, paddle it around, start it again and
    *then* ride it up.
     
    Lars Chance, Jan 18, 2011
    #30
  11. Peter

    Nev.. Guest

    Nope, I have no problem with U-eys. Don't know what gave you that
    impression. Maybe you were replying to the wrong post?

    Nev..
     
    Nev.., Jan 18, 2011
    #31
  12. Peter

    Lars Chance Guest

    What's your problem with U-eys without a clutch then? (or were you
    weirdly suggesting that *I* have a problem with U-eys even though it was
    I who recommended them in the first place?)
     
    Lars Chance, Jan 18, 2011
    #32
  13. Peter

    Marty H Guest

    most of the stuff I do, especially when you are stationary which
    happens 10 fold off road than on

    mh
     
    Marty H, Jan 18, 2011
    #33
  14. Peter

    Lars Chance Guest

    Yeah; *good* answer Marty!

    (I really, really need to slip the clutch to remain stationary)
     
    Lars Chance, Jan 18, 2011
    #34
  15. Smart-arseness aside, how do you keep the engine running when you're
    stopped? If you don't, how do you restart it when you're stuck in a hollow?

    - soakes
     
    Stephen Oakes, Jan 18, 2011
    #35
  16. Peter

    thefathippy Guest

    Well, yes, it's much easier to ride clutchless off tar. Especially on
    fire trails/dirt roads - typical DR country.

    Tony F
     
    thefathippy, Jan 18, 2011
    #36
  17. Peter

    Marty H Guest

    why waste a good answer on you?

    mh
     
    Marty H, Jan 19, 2011
    #37
  18. Peter

    TimC Guest

    Sitting at the traffic lights, trucks careening just past your front
    wheel, and *bam*, your clutch cable lets go. How fast can you reach
    the brake/kill switch?
     
    TimC, Jan 19, 2011
    #38
  19. Why would you need to? Stay Upright trained you to put the bike into
    neutral when stopped, right hand on the brake, right foot on the brake,
    left foot supporting the bike. You're not going anywhere even if the
    cable let go while you're pulling up.
     
    Andrew McKenna, Jan 19, 2011
    #39
  20. Peter

    LC Guest

    Neutral?
    (The real answer is *don't* get stuck in a hollow.)
    Smart-arsedness also aside; yeah it's harder to ride without a clutch
    (obviously) and you may just have the incredibly bad luck to actually
    snap your clutch while stationary at the bottom of a hole and there's
    not much choice other than to haul the bike out manually but you can
    generally get rolling (or *keep* rolling) enough to get into first and
    limp off home (or to the bike-shop).

    Elsie.
     
    LC, Jan 19, 2011
    #40
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