Engineering advice required

I have AP Racing calipers on the Gixer, on which the pads are retained
by two long R-Clips hich have corroded to shit. I've had a problem
sourcing new ones from AP because they don't make that caliper any more,
the replacement is 5mm narrower. I've managed to lay my hands on the
last 4 clips AP had, but I know they'll corrode as badly as the
originals I have.

Is there a form of metal treatment that will last in our weather and
still the keep required attributes of the original metal? Either black
or silver treatments will do, as long as the finish lasts better than
what these have to start with.

 

Hmmmm, I would suggest a thin layer of Hammerite smooth, but that would
probably make them too thick to use.

This is a bit expensive for a one-off job, but I'm sure you'd suddenly
find a need to use it on everything you lay your hands on:

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8260

 

SteveH said...

I don't want to Hammerite anything on this bike. it's a bit too nice for
shit like that. I've never found Hammerite to be any better than any
other paint either. I'm looking for a plating solution, one I can have
someone else do.

 

Do the clips replace the normal pad securing pins you'd get on Jap
calipers or do they just hold the pins in place as on Jap stuff? If
it's the former I'd modify the set up to take a normal pin because
it's not as if you want to do rapid pad changes as you might if you
were using them for racing.

 

What are they made of? - A cathodic (electrophoretic) black finish would do
the job with an increase in diameter of maybe 30 microns max and will give
960 hrs plus salt spray resistance.

Gosh, I wonder where that could be done?

 

Lozzo scribbled on the back of a napkin:

Chrome plating may be possible depending on the material but it may
make the pins too brittle.

Can you get someone to copy them in stainless steel instead?

 

Andy Bonwick said...

Good point. They are quick release type. I can handle not having that
benefit as I don't have to change pads all the time. It wouldn't be out
of order to have simple pins each with two smaller R-clips holding them
in place, but again I wouldn't want those corroding so would be looking
at something more permanent like stainless steel. These ones I have are
quite exposed and very noticeable when they are corroded.

 

Ovenpaa said...

They look like they already have that type of coating on already, and
it's crap.

 

snip>

Titanium is what you want. I haven't got any lying around but how much
would a pair of Ti bolts cost and once you've got them to ask Mr Eaton
to modify them into pins.

 

Andy Bonwick said...

If Mr Eaton is prepared to waste a lathe tool machining 4 bolts down to
3mmish dia and then cutting them off. I suppose I could buy him a top
quality tool to do this job and others he made need it for in future.

 

You might ask these people nicely if they would do some for you
http://www.alloywire.com/

 

Nowt a carbide tip tool won't fix I would expect.

 

I was just going to post the same sort of thing.. 3mm filler rod.

http://www.kellysearch.com/partners/01045167/0104516D.005010.HTM

 

I don't think it'd be a case of needing a new tool, more a case of me
bringing him one over for the weekend. You can buy sets of 12mm shank
throwaway tipped tools for about £30 and once I knew the tool post
size of his lathe I'd sort him out what was needed.

If they're 3mm then have a look see if you can get some titanium
socket cap head screws long enough then just modify the head and drill
for a split pin. Titanium isn't difficult to machine by any stretch of
the imagination, it's no tougher than stainless steel.

 

The message <>

Have you still got the old ones?

I could molish copies out of stainless steel if I can find the right
thickness bar.

 

Rusty Hinge 2 said...

I've got two full sets, one of which are new, the others are horribly
fucking corroded. The only things on my Suzuki that have corroded are
British made, now I know why I never bought a Triumph.

 

I'm prolly completely wrong & got the wrong end of the stick but would a
very light coating of copperslip not keep corrosion in check?

 

I could chuck them in with my plating for nowt

 

The message <>

Well, d'you want me to see what I can find to copy them in? (I used to
be a motorcycle mechanic, later, a metalwork [amongst other things]
teacher...)

 

In uk.rec.motorcycles, Lozzo belched forth and ejected the following:

Coat hanger with a hole drilled in it.