Divvie Ignition problem?

I had a bit of a weird problem with my Yamaha XJ600S Diversion (1995
model) the other week, I'd just taken it for a trip to the lakes (to
visit the parents for the weekend) a round trip of around 500 miles.
Having returned, I got a couple of oil lights, but it's due for a 4000
miles service with an oil change anyway, so I just let it warm up a
little longer and the light went out, I figure I'd just run it a
little harder than usual and it dumped a little oil.

A couple of days later, I came to start it and it wouldn't start, the
starter turned normally, but there was absolutely no action from the
engine. I'd only done 17 miles since a re-fuel, so I wasn't out of
fuel. The tachometer was flicking to around 2.5k rpm for a second,
then dropping back to zero for about two seconds, repeatedly. I
remember reading somewhere that this is a self-diagnostic indicator,
(for the ignition, I think) but I can't find where I read that, I've
scoured my Clymer's, Haynes', and owner's manuals with no joy (but I
might be looking in the wrong place).

As it happens, I came to push the bike to a mate's garrage (he has
more tools, better lighting etc.) about a week and a half later (busy
busy busy!) and thought I'd just give it another go at starting in
case it'd save us the effort of pushing it. It started, though it
needed a little choke and took a while to warm up, I also only ran it
very gently, not going over about 5000rpm, because it seemed a little
reluctant around there. I suspect this reluctance in starting /
running was more to do with being stored outside in damp weather and
not run for a week or so (usually, I run it every day and although
it's stored outside, it's a much more protected location, between two
walls)

Anyway, I'm fairly confident (hopeful?) that if I just do the 4000
mile service, that'll be ok, clear up the plugs, oil, air filter etc.
but I'm really pee'd off not being able to find out what the original
complaint was, particularly as it might come back to haunt me later
and I'd like to at least know where to look!

If anyone can tell me what this flicking-tachometer thing means, or
point me to the right section of any of my three manuals, that'd be
funky and stuff...

Thanks for reading my wiffling, and for any replies. (Well, for the
helpful ones. This is UKRM after all

Cheers & God bless
Sam "SammyTheSnake" Penny
PS. For those who occasionally ask, Divvie 600s do wheelie, I did it
by accident once, coming away from the lights with a little more gusto
than was strictly necessary, it was only a little skip, but I haven't
been on the bike long enough to want to try to take it higher...

 

The fazer has a similar diagnostic thing as well except it varies
between 0 rpm, 5000 and max rpm IIRC, and only the ignition has to be
turned on for it to happen. On the fazer this is for setting and
adjusting the throttle position sensor (TPS). I can't be arsed to find
out how to adjust it or anything (or if this is your exact problem), but
when it settles on 5000rpm it's suppossed to be setup correctly (for a
fazer). Anyway check your haynes manual and it might have something on
the topic.

HTH

 

snip

On the Fazer the tacho cycles- 0rpm 3secs - 3000rpm 2.5secs - current rpm 3
secs - and back to the beginning if the T.P.S circuit is faulty.

Mark

 

The behaviour I described was with just the ignition switched on,
though it was unaffected by pressing the starter button.

I don't have my manuals to hand at the moment, but I'm pretty sure
that my model of the Divvie doesn't actually _have_ a throttle
position sensor. IIRC, it was introduced in the 1996 version. I'll
have a look when I get home...

Cheers & God bless
Sam "SammyTheSnake" Penny

 

as a post-script to this, I guess, I've had difficulty in finding the
10W30 oil specified in the manual for winter temperatures (I intend to
ride all through the winter, so I can't use the summer specification
which is apparently no good for temperatures under 5c) I was told by a
chap in Drayton Croft (Coventry) that 10W40 in the UK is the same oil
as 10W30 in Japan and that that's what I need, is that right?

Cheers & God bless
Sam "SammyTheSnake" Penny

 

The SAE viscosity specification is used internationally, so he's talking
bollocks. Having said that, the important bit for you is the 10W bit, so
yes, you could use 10W40 if it's all that's available.

--

Dave

GS 850 x2 / SE 6a
SbS#6 DIAABTCOD#16 APOSTLE#16? FUB#3
FUB KotL OSOS#12? UKRMMA#19