[QUOTE] Clumsy cunt.[/QUOTE] Absofuckinglutely
Indeed. It'd have only taken a sharp stick in the ditch to have put me in hospital with a hole through my back! <1,2,3............ counts blessings>
Makes me laugh too.................................................... now The bike actually stayed dug into the verge, courtesy of the crash bars. If she'd gone into the ditch I'd never have got her out.
Stritchy was seen penning the following ode to ... whatever: They can, and I think they've got most of them in stock anyway. After my own attempt at horizontal Panning they got me the wine-red mirror cover within two or three days...
(The Older Gentleman) struggled to ejaculate: Loath though I am, a mere novice, to disagree with The Oracle: Bollocks. As long as the rear tyre isn't waving in the air, then surely getting some retardation on the rear must help? The study referred to last time we did this explained it quite well - for maximum retardation, they reckoned the first thing to do is shut the throttle and sit up, moving your CoG back as far as possible. As you sit up, hammer the rear brake on as hard as you dare, making the bike squat and compressing the rear suspension. Then hammer the front on as hard as you dare, unloading the rear to some extent and requiring a reduction in pressure to the rear to avoid locking. The whole process once practised takes the blink of a gnat's nicitating membrane. The most effective way to brake is cadence braking, right? Increasing and decreasing the braking pressure, loading and unloading the suspension thus dissipating energy through the springs and shocks - this is effectively what you would do when getting on the rear first - make the rear squat then unload it by use of the front brake. The point of maximum retardation is the instant before the wheel locks in most cases, using the mechanical grip of the tyre on tarmac. The faster you can get to this point and the longer you can hold it there without the wheel locking, the better. Shorter braking distances rely on getting the brakes on hard early. As hard as possible, as early as possible - and holding it there without locking up (the rear, I'll grant, is an option as far as locking goes) - personally I really DGAF as long as the rear doesn't try to overtake the front. Having tried this with the legendary Coke Can, it works for me - on the RF at least. I suspect it would work better on a Pan Euro, with a lower CoG that is further back to start with. I'll grant that the rider of a cutting-edge sportsbike with massive radial brakes with wavy discs and billet calipers on the front and a riding position that forces the rider to crouch right over the tank may be better off forgetting about using the vestigial rear brake altogether, but not all bikes are built that way and Stritchy rides a Pan Euro. Refutation and education welcome.
Does Stritchy's Pan have linked brakes? I ask as some variations of Honda'a linked brake systems have a one of the front pots linked to the brake pedal such that the only way to get maximum front braking is to use the rear in unison.
Ah. I misinterpreted the top sentence as meaning that using the rear brake on its own gave more braking than using the front on its own. Apologies, and I'll go and heap sackcloth and ashes on my head. Move along, now, nothing to see here.....
Unless you ride a ShiteOldHarley, this simply isn't true.[/QUOTE] Points at GL1500 and KH500A8 in garage and challenges assertion most strongly. -- | ___ Salad Dodger |/ \ _/_____\_ GL1500SEV/CBR1100XXX/KH500A8/TS250C |_\_____/_| ..73063../..16589.../..3180./.19406 (>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 YTC#4 PM#5 |__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 two#11 WG* \ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4 \|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4 '^'
On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 11:21:56 +0100, <sub-contracts forthcoming Stanley knife "incident"> -- | ___ Salad Dodger |/ \ _/_____\_ GL1500SEV/CBR1100XXX/KH500A8/TS250C |_\_____/_| ..73063../..16589.../..3180./.19406 (>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 YTC#4 PM#5 |__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 two#11 WG* \ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4 \|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4 '^'
Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Salad Dodger Why not get all DnC on him, and go for a soldering iron instead? -- Nigel - Manufacturer of the "Champion-105" range of rearsets WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41 ZZR1100, Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner", Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big"
On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 09:52:19 +0100, Pip wrote: ****, I just yank the front on and hope, IMHO back brakes are confusing lack feel and are invariably worhless.
