Daytona 1, R1 2 :((((

How primitive.

Well, introducing some slack should have the effect of moving the
bite-point closer to the bar, but will obviously also introduce free
play, which you don't really want.

Ummm... you might be able to adjust the bite point by playing about with
the doo-hickey on the wotsit. You know... thingy. Have you got a Haynes
manual?

 

Oh I plan to. I'll have to have a look around and see who's about.

 

Really? Time to get good at soldering then. Do you remember where it
is?

 

Yes. I found that if I adjusted it at the engine end to where I wanted
it, it created a lot of slack in the lever. Adjusting at the lever end
to take up the slack moved it back again.

No Haynes manual yet. I did look at the whirly bit, but I decided it
was beyond my knowledge, so didn't touch it.

 

It's a fucking shitload; 63 would be a tad more realistic...

Still, I stand to be corrected.
--
| Wik -UKRMHRC#10- 2003 R1150GSA -DC#1 -'FOT#0 'FOF #39 - BOD#12 BOB#12
|# You don't believe me | "Experience is the worst teacher.
|That the scenery | It always gives the test first
|Could be a cold-blooded killer. | and the instruction afterward."
***** human response from wik at blueyonder dot co dot uk *****

 

Well, duh.

Ah, yes: whirly bit. That was the technical term I was grasping for.

 

Is this the same can as you had on at the BH ?

Ho Yuss, I came past the BH at 8k, and topped it out at 9.5k on the overtake.

What and miss the fruity exhaust sound. Sounded good from where I was sitting...

Cheers,

Paul.

 

Do I look like I could ever be arsed to lift a spanner in the general
direction of a bike? Yes its the same one...

overtake.

Wuss... There was another 1000rpm to play with!

sitting...

Sounds nice *on* the bike, but next to it just made me think of those WWII
films where 20 Messerschmitts peel in and scream down onto the plucky Brit
heroes.....

Dave

 

It takes about five minutes to do; that's two minutes to get the seats
off, a minute to "zap" it and another two minutes to put the seat back on.

Most good dealers will not charge for it if you don't mind waiting around
until they've got a free five minutes assuming it's a job in isolation and
not being done at service time. Given it's almost the exact same
procedure to check the ECU for faults then it sounds like a bit of a
cheeky dealer. Are they a solus Triumph outfit?

I was never charged for it...

Ahh, the latter bit is pretty much true about them all doing it; mine
succumbed to a lump hammer and some scaffold pole when it was in JLs
'cause Chris there said "Fucking hell! That's blowing a bit /too/ much!"
and fixed it. He also jubilee-clipped some new springs onto the join
where the lugs had broken off.

Mmm...Cable clutch, so he's prolly right. S'pose the cable could be
shagged or the actuating arm...Don't know, mind.


Incidentally, I've still got a pukka Triumph service manual and giant
socket (for the rear wheel) sitting in the drawer if someone wants to make
me an offer...

--
| Wik -UKRMHRC#10- 2003 R1150GSA -DC#1 -'FOT#0 'FOF #39 - BOD#12 BOB#12
|# You don't believe me | "Experience is the worst teacher.
|That the scenery | It always gives the test first
|Could be a cold-blooded killer. | and the instruction afterward."
***** human response from wik at blueyonder dot co dot uk *****

 

Heh, see my other post...
:-D
--
| Wik -UKRMHRC#10- 2003 R1150GSA -DC#1 -'FOT#0 'FOF #39 - BOD#12 BOB#12
|# You don't believe me | "Experience is the worst teacher.
|That the scenery | It always gives the test first
|Could be a cold-blooded killer. | and the instruction afterward."
***** human response from wik at blueyonder dot co dot uk *****

 

<waves>

I'll email you later today when I've a bit more time, but I want to get
my bagsy in first.

 

The varlet known as Wik did proclaim to all assembled:

Orrell motorcycles? Nope, they have the Triumph dealership in a separate
building.
They call it the Northwest Triumph centre. Worst prices and shittiest
deals I've ever found. The sales git is just that - no actual interest
in bikes, just money "they sell themselves, mate". He didn't (and never
will) get my business.

Even if this mob didn't charge, I wouldn't trust em to get it right -
they'd find some way to blow the "brain". Useless, they are!

 

Well, generic cable clutch adjustment, innit. Down at the clutch
housing end is an adjuster - this is your coarse adjustment. Up at
the lever is another adjuster - the fine adjustment. Wind away at
them until you find something that suits, really. You'll want a bit
of slack/free play in the cable to give you a bite point closer to the
bar - alternatively check to see if there is a span-adjustable lever
available for the Daytona.