Clutch trouble?

I am not sure what the problem is with the clutch. I am not sure if it is
'slipping' or if it is something else. It is almost like it does not want
to engage, but it will and it is not smooth.

What does a slipping motorcycle clutch feel like?

Is it like a car where you push the gas and go no where?

The bike operates as smoothly as usually except when engaging first gear.

Any other thoughts?

Changing the clutch disks looks pretty simple, but I dont want to spend the
money or time if it is something else.

Thanks,
Matt

 

don't happen to know what make or model, do you?
some different ones have different characteristics.
sammmm

 

Sorry folks I should have mentioned that it is a 1981 Kawasaki KZ750.

I went ahead and adjusted the clutch last night and will be able to inform
if this worked or not.

Thanks, Matt

 

It is when the engine revs, but the speed of the motorcycle doesn't
change appreciably. Basically, the tachometer and speedometer should
both increase or decrease in unison in a linear relationship. If they
don't, then the clutch is slipping.

If the bike won't go into first gear, that sounds more like a clutch
that isn't completely DISengaging rather than a clutch that isn't
ENgaging (that is, slipping).

I'm not sure I really understand fully the symptoms you are seeing.

Matt

 

Most Americans call that "shudder." I've never heard of "clutch plate
bounce."


Matt

 

I also adjusted the clutch last night: at the case where the lock nut holds
the tension screw as well as in the cable itself to pull out any excess
play.
This did not seem to help much.

Krusty Kritters comment seems to identify what I am feeling as I engage the
clutch in first gear:

If this 'shudder' or 'judder' is my problem than is this something that can
cause any damage if I keep riding it?

Or should I park it until I can change out the clutch disks?

Thanks for all your advice and I will let you know how it turns out.

Matt

 

I am not sure what the problem is with the clutch. I am not sure if it is
Allow me to toss in my .02
Make sure your goddamn cable is well lubed. If there's too much
friction in the cable, it will appear "adjusted" at the lever, but
won't relax enough at the engine end to allow the clutch to fully
engage. It will go most of the way--enough to drive--but will allow
the engine to spin when you goose it or accelerate hard.
You might even find yourself spending a ridiculous amount of money
and time replacing your clutch guts to solve this "slipping" only to
discover upon reassembly that it may've been a goo'd up cable the
whole time.
Don't be a hero, Billy. Lube that cable.

-Luke

 

Keep in Mind Matt, the adjustment on that KZ clutch is verrrrrrrry fine, a
32'nd of a turn will make a significant difference, too much will give you
fits and keep you busy trying to readjust it forever,

Tom B
84 KZ750/1000 CSR street sleeper
83 GPz 550
89 600R

 

How do I know how much to turn the screw in if it is this sensitive?
The manual states "turn the adjusting screw in until it becomes hard to
turn"
How much is hard to turn?
Is there a torque setting that I can shoot for?
Thanks, Matt

 

[Matt's reply moved to the bottom]

It's not really that sensitive. It isn't a question of how hard you turn
the screw when you bottom it out. Just turn it gently until it stops.
You should do this with the cable adjusted with extra slack.

The 'tricky' part (to be honest it is not that tricky) is how far you
back the screw off before locking it with the locknut. About 1/8 turn
is right. You just need to make sure there is slack in the clutch ball
screw mechanism when the lever is not pulled in. You also need to make
sure there is a *small* amount of slack in the cable, too.

What you are trying to avoid is having the clutch be partially disengaged
without the lever being pulled back, which will make it slip and burn
up the plates.