Clutch stopped working during oil change?

do you really want Limited slip fluid in a bike though?
Normally, LSD fluid will contain modifiers that are wiped off the final
drive clutches when differential action occurs (in a car...) yet lubricate
the clutches when both wheels are spinning at the same time.

maybe a moot (sp) point tho, as you said the oil sump is completely seperate
from the tranny one?

 

Is this the first time started this season after sitting all winter?

--
Bill52

2003 Vulcan Classic 1500
VROC # 10779
Winnipeg, Canada

 

Just to clarify - have you been using the "limited slip" automotive Castrol
oil in the primary? If so, I think that might be where your problem lies;
the anti-friction additives in that oil will fry your clutch. But if the
engine oil also lubricates the clutch then you're okay because you said you
use Castrol bike oil. In that case, I would check the clutch by taking the
bike off the centrestand and hopping on to put the bike into first. It's
possible the clutch plates are sticking and need a little jolt to break
free...?

 

seems to say it worked perfectly before the change, but ya, maybe you're
right ...

 

I think the clutch is part of the engine and the two gear boxes are on
either end of the drive shaft.

Steve

 

If it uses a rack and pinion release mechanism like my
GS1100EX, it sounds like the rack has slipped out of
engagement with the pinion gear.

 

Not on an aircooled bike it doesn't, unless you're counting condensation
from not using it frequently enough.

 

What does your owners manual recommend?

 

1980 GS850G
Just changed all the fluids and then did the gaskests for the rocker cover
and the breather to solve and oil leak.
When I drained the primary drive unit, the oil was milky. That usually means
oil and water. Drained the final drive and it was a litle dark but great.
Changed the engine oil and filter.
I started up the bike on the centre stand just to make sure everything was
hunky dory.
Pulled in the clutch, dropped it into 1st so the new gear oil would
circulate and let the clutch go.
Rear wheel spins fine.
Pulled in the clutch but it doesn't feel right.
Applied the rear brake. Bike stalled.
Re-adjusted clutch (I had the cable off to replace the gaskets) and ...
Same thing.
Even tightened as far as she'll go and the clutch doesn't disengage.
I used Castrol 10-40 bike oil.
I used Castrol 80 differential lube in the 2 gear boxes. It is a limited
slip formula.

What's happening?
The clutch worked perfectly on disassembly.

 

Just a thought, but are you sure the clutch actuator behind the side cover
is properly installed. There should be a little lever connected to clutch
cable, that moves another lever or an escentric inside the cover, that
pushed on a plunger to disengage the clutch. I've assembled these things
wrong before, sometimes there is a slot you have to make sure the actuator
fits into while putting the sidecover on. Did the cover seat completely
without tightening any bolts, or did you have to crank on the bolts to make
it seal? If the latter, I bet you have an assembly error.

Old shadetree mechanic.

 

Never had the D(*^% thing apart...
That's why I'm so perplexed.
The only thing I did was back off the adjuster for the cable to get it out
of the way to do the gasket change.
I replaced the oil and the gear oil, now the clutch doesn't function.
Thanks for the thought, though.
Ian
80 GS850G
82 CB450T
8~ SR250s

 

Suzuki gear oil.
Go figure.....

 

Broken clutch cable, or maybe disconnected or jammed at one end?

Pierre

 

Nope.
Clutch mechanism moves through full range of motion.
Just doesn't do anything!!

 

You are no doubt already linked to this but if not, it has a bunch of GS
clutch problems etc which might provided a clue.

http://www.thegsresources.com/q_a/gs_qa_general.htm

 

I have been haunting the GSResources since I got the bike. I is indeed a
superb site.
Thanks for the link, Pierre.