Cleaning fork seals instead of replacing them

Discussion in 'Motorbike Technical Discussion' started by Masospaghetti, Mar 24, 2007.

  1. Well, 25 years ago, Honda put a schrader valve and a crossover tube on
    my CB900's forks, and declared that the system was to be pressurized to
    (I think, without checking the specs) around 10 PSI for normal
    operation. So I do, and the fork seals hold that pressure nicely for
    months and months of riding.[/QUOTE]

    Considering that forks are quite similar to hydraulic cylinders used on
    farm equipment that handle upwards of 2200 PSI, a few PSI of air pressure
    will not cause a good condition seal to leak as your experience confirms.

    Grit and age are seal killers.

    - Nate >>
     
    Nate Bargmann, Mar 26, 2007
    #41
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  2. *Ding*

    with accompanying glockenspiel carillon.
     
    chateau.murray, Mar 27, 2007
    #42
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  3. Apples and oranges. A hydraulic cylinder that produces linear motion
    is designed to be completely filled with hydraulic fluid, and air is
    NOT tolerated because a smooth push is mandatory.

    And, hydraulic cylinders are generally used for slow pushing,
    generating a lot of force. If you want something to operate really,
    really, really fast, you use a pneumatic cylinder. Fast acting
    pneumatic circuit breakers are used to protect high voltage
    transmission lines that need to clear faults in 0.004 seconds.

    When I worked in the aerospace ground equipment maintenance shop at
    Edwards AFB, I did oil changes and engine changes and a lot of general
    repairs, even though I was an aircraft electrician. They had too many
    electricians, not enough mechanics, so I was sent to help out in the
    AGE shop where they had lots and lots of engine driven generator sets
    that were built from aircraft parts.

    The dedicated hydraulic specialist who talked to me about things like
    the difference between a seal leak and weeping seals
    also explained what the horrible groaning sound was that came from the
    plumbing in the mobile unit that was affectionately called a
    "hydraulic mule".

    The groaning sound was trapped air bubbles in the system. There was a
    large hydraulic reservoir and an electric motor turned a pump that
    provided pressure to the hydraulic cylinders.

    If you have ever been around an airplane when it is up on jacks and
    the ground crew is doing a gear retraction test, you'll hear the
    groaning of air in the system, and the hydraulic mechanic
    will be doing everything he can to purge air out of the hydraulic
    system as he flushes it.

    He will never get all the air out of the system, and he will never
    stop all the weeps and leaks. If you walk around under an airplane
    you're going be dripped on by hydraulic fluid.

    No matter. The ground crew has cases and cases of hydraulic fluid.

    However, the landing gear struts themselves are very analagous to a
    motorcycle fork.

    The pneumatic oleo strut is designed to be extended by air pressure
    and the oil in the strut is for damping motion. I have personally
    taken oleo struts apart and marvelled at the complicated valving
    inside.

    The pneumatic oleo strut only has to hold air for a matter of days at
    the most, it doesn't matter that much if it all leaks out while the
    aircraft is parked, but the pilot will have a rough landing if it all
    leaks out in flight.

    I was driving a jeep past a B-57 bomber parked on the apron at
    Edwards, and I noticed that the nose was almost on the ground.

    B-57's were already very low to the ground, they were originally a
    British design called the "Canberra" and Brit designers wanted the
    engines buried in the wings instead of in nacelles hanging underneath.
    With engines in the wings, the landing gear can be much shorter.

    The mechanic I was with said that the strut had just collapsed from
    all the air leaking out of it and that it was no problem to recharge
    the strut with a mobile air compressor, which he would check out from
    the aerospace ground power yard I was working at.
    But that doesn't explain why brand new fork seals weep...
     
    Potage St. Germaine, Mar 27, 2007
    #43
  4. Masospaghetti

    Moon Badger Guest

    Try getting the weight off the front of the bike, then wiping the stanchions
    with some isopropyl to degrease them. Next, put a layer of masking tape,
    and only one layer, on the stanchion just above the dust cap. Bounce the
    front down a few times and the masking tape will clean the seal lip of fine
    crud.

    If the seal is still misting, replace it before it fails in a nasty way when
    your are on the brakes.
     
    Moon Badger, Mar 27, 2007
    #44

  5. That is a really, really good tip. Thanks. I'll try that.
     
    The Older Gentleman, Mar 27, 2007
    #45
  6. Masospaghetti

    vmxr19 Guest

    Hi,

    I've been lurking in this group off and on, but have been riding
    and wrenching on offroad bikes for 30 or so years. I was reading this
    thread, and I just wanted to say that Honda doesn't think this is an
    OWT. I own a KX250 and a CR125R as well as a CR85, and all these bikes
    have screws on the top of the forks to release the air pressure between
    motos. (According to the Manuals)

    I've as far as cleaning dirt out of the seal, I've done this many
    times, it doesn't always work, and when it doesn't the seals need
    replacing, but sometimes when forks start to weep after being at a mud
    race, it can be very useful. I use small strips of heavy paper to do the
    actual cleaning.

    Thx
    Hans
     
    vmxr19, Apr 11, 2007
    #46
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