Chuffed!

Worth a clean innit. It might be, it's quite an important part.

 

That's the CB sorted then, Im pretty sure it'll be ready for an MOT soon!!

Brakes are all rebuilt and bled, tanks back on, seats back on, etc,
battery's charged and its running!

Only thing is that it seems to be revving a bit high for some reason :-(
Idle was adjusted and ive readjusted it but still runs too high and then
sometimes settles down, blipping the throttle seems to produce a bit of a
pop, not a backfire but im wondering if all this is related to the air
filter, its not full of shit, but its not exactly clean either.

Could it be that simple?

 

Air leak at the inlet?

Carb synchronisation?

 

Cant imagine so as before i took off the seat and tank all was running well
and intact but ill double check tomorrow JIC

Not a fecking clue, dont know whats involved at all or the symptoms. On the
lammy, the carbs synced if when you apply the throttle the scooter goes
forward
Again though, what could have put them out of sync if when it was running it
was fine as above?

 

Ah well, just an idea.

I'm presuming it's a twin, in which case fiddling about with it taking
it off the bike would cause it to go out of synch.

 

No. It means you haven't got the pilot screw adjustment right, and it's
running too lean at idle.

 

'Tis a twin, ok then so that's a possibility

 

"The Older Gentleman" said to Donegal Paul

Ah, ok, anyone know offhand then how it should be set?
Sorry guys :-(

 

RTFM.

 

Donegal Paul wrote

It will either be 1 and a half or 2 and a half turns out. Consult yer
BOL for the exact details.

If you haven't got details then you can always, assuming you are working
on the basis it is too lean:-

Screw the jet home counting the number of turns as you go and then screw
it out again to half a turn less and then in quarter turn increments
open and try. When you get it open to about 5 turns and there is ****
all difference then you can be fairly certain it wasn't that.

 

eh?

 

Donegal Paul wrote

RTFF

 

"Dr Ivan D. Reid" said to Donegal Paul

I have to admit, I had read pilot screw as pilot jet and thought there must
be something vastly different in these carbs compared to the lammy.
Think that was a bit of a senior moment!
OK, I know exactly now what you guys meant so had a look at the carbs and Im
buggered if I can find the pilot screw, ill dig out the cb250 manual for
reference though.

Still, as it was running, I thought I would bring it out for a quick spin up
and down our street a bit and while it was running ok up to 40mph, if
throttle was applied then it seemed to want to die which on the lammy would
suggest some form of air intake problem :-/

Oh, and those front brakes are rebuilt but spongy as **** so I guess I need
to bleed the buggers.
While Im here is there an easy way to bleed brakes?
What Im wondering is is it worth using those systems that are supposedly
hands free?
As its twin discs up front then do you bleed each calliper in turn or what?

Anyone?

 

Attach bleed pipe to nipple. Undo nipple half a turn or whatever it
takes, squeeze brake lever, shut nipple, release lever. repeat ad
anuseam until bubbles stop coming out of the pipe. Change the brake
fluid, topping up the master cyclinder reservoir as you go. when the
clean fluid comes through the pipe, stop.

Don't let the level in the reervoir fall too low, or you'll start
pumping air again.

Don't release the brake lever with the nipple open, or it'll suck in air
at that end.

Yeah, they're useful, but the old-fashioned way works fine.

Yes, just that.

Top tip - get a blowlamp and apply heat, a lot of heat, to the nipple
before you put a spanner on it to undo it. They're notorious for
seizing, and snapping off otherwise.

 

Attach bleed pipe to nipple. Undo nipple half a turn or whatever it
takes, squeeze brake lever, shut nipple, release lever. repeat ad
anuseam until bubbles stop coming out of the pipe.[/QUOTE]

You undo/redo the nipple every squeeze? Jeezus, talk about making hard
work of it.

You can just put the end of the bleed tube into a jar of fluid to stop
it sucking air back in, shirely?

 

Ace wrote

The basis of a one man operation bleeding tool. The rest of the
components are, I believe, a screw and a knife. If I recall correctly
you bung the screw in the tube and just above it make a very small cut
in the tube. This you put into your jar of fluid.

 

Yes, except that it then sucks in the old fluid and it could getback
into the system.

Besides, just pumping the brakes without shutting off the nipple will
simply pump-suck in-pump suck in etc ad nauseam.

 

Dr Ivan D. Reid wrote

I believe, I believe

Neat. Does it work for bleeding brakes?

 

Dr Ivan D. Reid wrote

Not gonna be that much back pressure is there. The one atmosphere from
the atmosphere and however much suck there is in a brake master
cylinder.

I think a 21st century take young Bunsen's idea might be a goer.

 

steve auvache said...

I think my Mytivac works just fine.

http://www.mityvac.com/

HTH