Chain wear

Can anybody give me details on how to check when a chain needs replacing? My
1954 edition of "Motor Cycles and how to manage them" states that a quarter of
an inch total end movement per foot is the threshold. However, I think a more up
to date source is indicated. I know the sticker on the swingarm next to the
adjusters to be wrong.

The bike is a Honda CB500S with an RK 525<mumble> O-ring chain. I'll probably
replace the chain very soon anyway due to the condition of the sprockets, but it
would be nice to know.

 

David,

some but not total help.

My contemporary Susuki's manual states a maximum distance across 21
pins (ie., 20 links) of the chain. Regretably, the chain nomenclature
is different than yours, but perhaps Honda can provide a similar
number. Just FYI, my chain is RK50MFOZ1 and the maximum is 319.4mm or
12 9/16". That's on a 2000 Suzuki GSX750F, for what it's worth.

My guess is that if the sprockets are visibly worn, you're already
toying with fire. In your spot, I would go straight to new chain and
sprockets.

D

 

When adjusting it every so often become a frequent pain.

Or - when the transmission vibration and backlash becomes a frequent
pain.

Or both.

Rule of thumb. Works for me.

 

If the sprocket tooth profiles are visibly worn, you should
replace both sprockets and chain, immediately.
The old rule of thumb is: grip the chain across one of the
pins, at the rearmost edge of the rear sprocket. Pull that pin toward
the rear, out away from the sprocket. If the chain comes off the
sprocket enough to expose half the height of a tooth, it's time to
replace the set.

 

To increase the confusion even more, here is another rule of thumb:

Try to pull the chain away from the rear sprocket at the 3-a-clock
position (straight to the rear). If you can lift it enough to see half
a tooth, it's time to get a new chain, a new front sprocket and most
likely a rear sprocket as well.

 

The Older Gentleman Opined:

pain.

What would cause a chain to behave this way prematurely? I thought I
was taking good care of my chain, but it caused noticeable surging at
10K miles.

Usual maintenance: o-ring safe spray every 600 miles,
inspection/adjustment every 3K miles

Changing the chain and sprockets was an expensive and time-consuming
ordeal. The new chain has a 20K mile warranty, and I'd love it to last
that long.

--Cliff
GSF600S ('03) "Bounce"
GL650 ('83) "Eunice"

 

It's a Honda 500 twin, right? Twins and singles always give chains a
hard time, and remember that with its 180 degree crank throws the Honda
has the same firing intervals as a vee twin.

It's just that one (or two) big bangs per specified time interval is
tougher on a chain than four smaller ones in the same time.

Oh, and get the wheel alignment out and life will be reduced as well.

Dy Ducati has a stout chain, but its power pulses (and near total lack
of driveline shock absorbers) mean chains rarely last as long as 10,000
miles. My Triumph, on the other hand, hasn't needed adjustment, never
mind replacement, in nearly 10,000 miles.

Changing a chain and sprockets shouldn't be too expensive or
time-consuming on a Honda 500, anyway.

And offering a 20k miles guarantee on a chain is a very brave move,
IMHO.

 

Unless moragcliff has a 500 he's not mentioned in his sig, I think you've got
your posters mixed up, TOG. You're still right though.

I'm now shopping around for the parts. Any recommendations w.r.t chain
riveters?

Thanks for the advice so far, everyone.

 

I'll keep on being difficult. I realise that a riveted master link is "a
good
thing". But a spring clip one should do fine on 500 twin. Or ?

 

Yes, I've also just found out that most new DID chains come with a "unique"
type of rivet, for which they claim one needs their special new riveter. If I
was rash, that could have been a rather nasty surprise.

 

The first digit in the chain number indicates pitch in eighths of an
inch. So a 425 chain would have a pitch of 4/8" (0.5").

Wes