Chain Sprokets

I need to change my chain sprockets but the choice has overwhelmed me. I
have a choice of sprockets from between 42 teeth and 48 teeth going up in
increments of 1.

Could someone please explain what the difference is (apart from teeth count)
and what differences it will make to the handling/speed of the bike.

Many thanks.

 

Unless you've got a reason to change then fit the same sprockets as
are already fitted or what ever the manufacturer recommends.

The ratio between the number of teeth on the front and the rear
sprockets is what matters. So if you increase the size of the rear
sprocket whilst leaving the front alone then the overall ratio will
change. So that you would find the acceleration enhanced balanced by
the speed at which you'd reach the redline being reduced in each gear.

Decreasing the rear sprocket will have the opposite effect (obviously)
and the front works in the opposite way to the rear. However, note
because front sprockets are smaller the change will be more dramatic.

 

The more teeth on the rear sprocket the lower the overall gearing would be
.... so if you use a sprocket with more teeth than currently fitted you'll
get faster [1] acceleration but slower top-end. If you use a sprocket with
less teeth it's going to make the bike slower when accelerating but faster
overall, assuming the power is there to counteract wind resistance etc.

Note, just one or two teeth difference *can* make a huge difference to
'feel' and if you have the choice it's well worth experimenting with
different sprockets to find what suits you, the bike and your riding
environment best.

[1] For varying values of 'faster'.

 

Say it as you See it () gurgled happily, sounding much like they
were saying :

Go and ride a bicycle fitted with derailleur gears. You'll quickly figure
it out.

 

A helpful suggestion which makes sense.

What have you done with the real UKRM?

 

You have to reach the redline in *every* gear? That's why the Divvy's
dull then!

 

Sir is apparently unaware of the mandatory requirements that are placed
upon the rider of a motorcycle.

Of course, there are some motorcycles where requirements are somewhat
easier to achieve.

 

Well at the very least you should try.

 

Depends. A sprocket change which affected handling is hard to imagine.
The Roadster has benefited greatly from a change from a 40 to 42 rear
sprocket. Much more responsive but still not revving too hard. The bike
is general considered 'overgeared' as standard though.

--

+-------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster Gilera Nordwest Yamaha WR250Z |
| Gilera GFR Moto Morini 2C/375 |
+-------------------------------------------------------------+

 

I see your point, as a specifically road holding problem rather than
general handling.

Not to mention the impromptu wheelies.

Some hillclimbers regularly change gearing by really quite high
percentages to suit different hills (a higher spread than a road racer
would usually need to contemplate I suspect).

Having said that, if gearing way down for a very short hill or to get
exactly the right intermediate ratio to hold through a particularly
tricky section, a second gear start strategy might come into play (not
many cassette gearboxes MX bikes in use as yet).

--

+-------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster Gilera Nordwest Yamaha WR250Z |
| Gilera GFR Moto Morini 2C/375 |
+-------------------------------------------------------------+

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Champ

PAH...

<thinks>

TENNAH!

--
Wounded Uncle Nigel - Podium Placed Ducati Race Engineer as featured in
Performance Bikes and Fast Bikes

WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41
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Honda GL1000K2 (Falling apart) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big"
Suzuki TS250 "The Africa Single" Yamaha Vmax Honda ST1100 wiv trailer

 

Yer a hard bastard, WUN.

More power to yer elbow.