CBR1000 regulator/retifier - circuit diagram wanted.

Discussion in 'Motorbike Technical Discussion' started by Maytin, Aug 7, 2004.

  1. Maytin

    Maytin Guest

    CBR1000 regulator/rectifier - circuit diagram wanted.

    Do you have it in your workshop manual? Anyone know what are the specs of
    the components inside. Mine has blown and I want to rebuild it.

    Kind Regards, MARTIN
     
    Maytin, Aug 7, 2004
    #1
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  2. Maytin

    Maytin Guest

    Hi Krusty - thanks for your input.
    Just replaced my existing RR with Honda roigional ne for $200. Then
    carefully opened up the burnt our one, digging out the pitch - I have made
    up circuit diagram - I have the specs on the capacitor - trying to get the
    specs on the diodes and the regulator. The regulator is used to contol the
    current to the field winding (as this is NOT a permenant magnate type).

    If I get the specs for these other commponents I'll publish the circuit
    drawing and component specs. Parts will be less than $20 so we can all save
    a lot of money!

    OK guys - who can open up their old CBR1000 reg/rect and look at the part
    number for the other components??!!!!

    TIA
    ============================================
     
    Maytin, Aug 7, 2004
    #2
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  3. Maytin

    Mark Olson Guest

    It may be a mistake to assume the part numbers on the components will
    be industry standard numbers. It is not uncommon, in my experience,
    for a manufacturer to have their own proprietary part numbers for ICs,
    so instead of a TTL counter IC being marked '74LS393' it will be marked
    with a P/N something like 2892846...

    I wouldn't even bother trying to duplicate Honda's design. I would
    simply design my own circuit, that is, if I were inclined to take on
    such a project, which I'm not. It's so much easier to simply pony
    up the $$$ for the real thing. My free time is far too valuable to
    me for this sort of thing, I'd much rather be riding than designing
    circuits. Perhaps something for the long winter months, though.
     
    Mark Olson, Aug 7, 2004
    #3
  4. Maytin

    Maytin Guest

    Mark -
    Your quite right - the part number, for example, on the capacitor is N9004
    BUT the specs also say it is 10UF 50V Rated to 125degrees C (which costs
    1.39cents here).
    So you can see the issue is real simple if we get the details of the other
    (only) 2 parts we have a new RR for about $20 againt the $200-250 for new
    repacement unit.
    Not a bad saving for such a little effort! Lets hope others can help with
    the other parts info.

    Kind regards to all - Martin
    =================================================
     
    Maytin, Aug 7, 2004
    #4
  5. If you publish the circuit, maybe someone will be able to understand
    how it works and calculate the component values.

    If you also publish pictures of the components, the chances of
    identifying them increases.
     
    Helge Wunderlich, Aug 7, 2004
    #5
  6. Maytin

    Maytin Guest

    Helge -
    Thanks for your input - I will post the circuit as soon as I can to scan the
    drawing.
    Re the components - the only compnent of mine not burnt beond recognition
    was the capacitor - I hoped someone else might have the other two components
    survived for identification. -- see my post above...

    "Mark -
    Your quite right - the part number, for example, on the capacitor is N9004
    BUT the specs also say it is 10UF 50V Rated to 125degrees C (which costs
    1.39cents here).
    So you can see the issue is real simple if we get the details of the other
    (only) 2 parts we have a new RR for about $20 againt the $200-250 for new
    repacement unit.
    Not a bad saving for such a little effort! Lets hope others can help with
    the other parts info."

    Kind regards to all - Martin
    =================================================
     
    Maytin, Aug 8, 2004
    #6
  7. Maytin

    Mark Olson Guest

    All that would be necessary for an excited field regulator would be
    a voltage regulator IC and a pass transistor to handle the rotor
    current. The 10uF cap is most likely there to smooth out the supply
    voltage to the regulator. Depending on the regulator chip's internal
    reference voltage, you might need a couple of additional resistors
    to divide the system voltage going into the regulator. It doesn't
    really matter too much how Honda decided to do it, you certainly
    don't have to copy their implementation in order to come up with an
    equally good or even better regulator.
     
    Mark Olson, Aug 8, 2004
    #7
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