Carb Removal Maxim x

Hi,

Ive finally decided to try and work on the carbs of my Yamaha Maxim X.
I got a few books on maxims but not specifically the maxim X. They
make it look like I should have 3 or 4 inches of room to move the carbs
back away from the engine. I did all the disconnects like described
and looked it over, then looked it over again.

I pushed the Air Filter housing back (moved like an inch till it hit
the frame). Pulled and pulled, wiggled and jimmied, till the carbs
came off the intakes to the engine, but now they are stuck trying to
remove out the side of the frame. Basically what I have is the
throttle link is inside one the intakes and preventing me from moving
it further. I can't lift the link and pull the carbs at the same time.

So my question is, Should there have been an easier way? Should I have
taken off the intakes from the engine as well? I fell I might open a
can of worms way bigger than I opened so far.

I guess I can get my wife to put a screw driver down in the hole to
maybe old the linkage up?

I just think it should of come out much easier. The pics in the book
looked so simple.

I am sure they need to come out also as now I can look in at the main
jet? and see alot of crap on it. so a good soaking is in order for
these carbs.

Thanks in advance for hearing my rant and any tips you have on taking
carbs off.

 

It is for people that do this all day long. (not me)

What about pulling the engine mounts and rocking the engine forward
in the frame?

Ted

 

Getting banks of carbs out of some old bikes can be a nightmare. Getting
them back in can be even worse, with the hardened rubbers (soften them
with boiling water first).

I always remove, or at the very least loosen, the engine-->carb rubbers
as well as the carb-->airbox ones.

 

Ok they came out. What a fight. I hope like crazy that I didn't mess
anything else up pulling them out. Now the big question is can I get
them back in? Oh and they reek like a paint factory (laquer). This
should be an interesting weekend cleaning them up.

So:

Step 1: clean carbs
step 2: replace plugs
Step 3: Get new battery - confirmed its shot
Step 4: Oil change
Step 5: Replace carbs
Step 6: Find away to synch carbs.

And that brings me to my next question, how do you use those yics
sticks and how critical is it to synch carbs (how soon should I do it)?

 

Here's the deal on syncing.

First of all, syncing mostly helps when the throttle plates are closed, or
nearly closed. Bikes that are out of sync tend to idle high and fast
and have no engine braking. That is also a recipie for overheating in
city traffic. They also often end up with screwed up mixture screws
because the owners try to compensate for the bad synchronization
by screwing with the idle adjustments, and are often misdiagnosed as
having leaking intake boots, etc.

The idea behind syncing is to get equal vacuum in all cylinder
intakes. If all cylinders are equal in sealing ability and displacement,
then when they are all at the same vacuum the throttle plates will be
in the same position. Thus follows a very important point - the more
likely the cylinders are even, the closer to synchronization a perfect
alignment of
throttle plates will put the bike.

So, when reassembling the carbs after cleaning them, you want to
start by making sure that all throttle butterflies are in alignment,
before putting the carbs back on. There's many tricks the most
common is putting a strong light behind the carbs and looking through
the throats while the throttle butterflies are completely closed.

If your lucky, your engine will be more or less even between all
cylinders when you put the carbs back on, and the carbs will have
only a minor mis sync, not enough to really even notice. Which is
fine because until a valve adjustment is made, you shouldnt be
bothering with syncing.

Ted

 

Ted has replied about the carb synching. You need to have the valves
correctly adjusted first, as he said. And the ignition, but with
electronic ignition that's not an issue.

YICS - there is a very definite technique to balancing YICS Yamaha
carbs (I had an XJ550 a while back and needed to refer to it). Can't
remember the website, but there is a good one out there. Google is your
friend.

 

jrine wrote:
Ok, I got them out and opened up float bowl. What a mess. I took out
the main jet "screw" I believe it is just called a "main jet #100."
soaked it. I had one nasty stuck float valve, was able to free it and
cleaned it real good.

Well I putting the whole mess back together after cleaning all the
parts I could without opening the top. And my luck ran out.

One of the Main Jets just snaped off right in the hole!!!! I mean come
on!!!

Sooooo I finally found where to order one for 9.35 +10.00 shipping.

My questions now are, Is there a place that has alot of maximx parts?
Is there a way to extract that bugger?? Because if not, I see that the
jet tube that it screws into is not available.

I thought I found a place that had everything but can't find it. It was
like jd or jr or sr or something like that motorcycle.

I really need help on this one!!

 

You never try remove carburetor jets from an old carb unless you have given
it a nice long soak in carburetor cleaner, or the jets a nice long soak with
PB Blaster or other penetrating oil. (Note: WD-40 is NOT penetrating oil)
Nor do you ever remove staked screws (like those that hold the throttle
butterflies onto the throttle shaft) If the throttle butterflies are frozen
in
the bores, soak the carb for a day in a can of carb cleaner then try turning
them. If you still can't, junk the carb and buy another from a wrecker.

If you can't extract it with penetrating oil, and a screw extractor, then
your screwed, junk the carb. Frankly it sounds to me like the carbs are
junk anyway. If the main jet snapped when you were screwing it back
in, rather than taking it out, that sounds like you cross threaded it.

JC Whitney?

I have found it very difficult to get aftermarket motorcycle parts over
the counter. Even things as basic as oil filters - the only 2 places in
town that carry the ones for my bike are Walmart and Shucks, both
national chains where the store managers have no control over what
is stocked in the store, and clearly the national chain has much better
sales of that filter elsewhere in the country.

When it's dealer only items, or apparel, or tires I will go to the
motorcycle
dealer but otherwise I buy the stuff online. JC Whitney has some of the
cheapest
prices around for some items, but they are very hit and miss - they carry
some good items but right next to them are some of the stupidest items
imaginable.

Ted

 

Update:

Ok, this is for future reference:

Push Air boots back to be flush with airbox. That means take the
clamps OFF of the airboot.

Would of taken me about 10 min to remove carbs rather than 2 hours of
fighting the intake and air boots.

Carbs slid back in bike like a silk glove. Now problem is getting
airboots onto the air intakes. You have to use a large "not sharp"
screwdriver to pry the boots out and use your 3rd hand to push the boot
onto the carb at the same time. Wholly smokes do I have big hands.

So, my list is about done. cleaned carbs, replaced battery, changed
spark plugs. Now I need to see if it starts tonight and then after
running it a bit, change the oil and oil filter.

Can anyone recommend an oil?

Thanks

 

Yes; sir ... Mobil 1 car oil is very OK,work's for me.......
My regards....
..