Cam timing settings

Discussion in 'Motorbike Technical Discussion' started by Pete, Apr 24, 2005.

  1. Pete

    Pete Guest

    I have a CBR 1000F 1990 Honda. At 17000 miles I started getting some cam
    chain rattle, so I replaced the spring loaded tensioner and guides. And I
    marked the cam sprockets' locations at TDC on #1 cyl on the compression
    stroke. But I noticed that after putting the cams back with my marks lined
    up like when I took it apart, that the factory EX and IN marks on the gears
    aren't lined up exactly with the valve cover mating surface. The IN (intake
    cam sprocket) is lined up, but the EX (exhaust cam sprocket) is about a
    tooth off. I can't find my Haynes manual that i've missplaced over the
    years.
    The old tensioner was stuck about in the middle of it's travel (btw)
    Anyone know where I can fine a pic of the cam gear locations?

    Thanks,

    Kent
     
    Pete, Apr 24, 2005
    #1
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  2. If the cam sprocket has 30 teeth, 360/30 = 12...

    But the camshaft turns 1 time for every 2 times the crankshaft turns,
    so 12/2 = 6 degrees off. If the exhaust valve closes late, the engine
    gets really "cammy", you have to rev it higher to reach the power peak,
    there's more overlap. If the exhaust closes too early, there's less
    overlap, the engine gets really *torquey* and won't rev up. Have you
    noticed anything like that?

    By any chance, did you remove the camshafts and reinstall them with the
    spring loaded cam chain tensioner in place? The engine should be turned
    to TDC on the #1 cylinder, at which point there will be clearance on
    the intake and exhaust valves of #1, the exhausts of #2 will be
    completely closed, so there will be clearance on #2 exhaust, and #3
    intakes will have clearance, too. #4 intake and exhausts will be open.
    Then you remove the spring loaded cam chain tensioner so you can nudge
    the exhaust cam sprocket to the correct position. You wouldn't have to
    loosen up the cam bearing bolts, just nudge the cam, pick up the cam
    chain and move it one tooth and reinstall the
    cam chain tensioner and release the spring so it can adjust itself...

    Then, with the spark plugs removed so there will be no resistance from
    compression, rotate the engine several times manually to be sure the
    valves are hitting each other and that the pistons aren't hitting the
    valves and put the valve cover back on...
     
    krusty kritter, Apr 25, 2005
    #2
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  3. Pete

    Pete Guest

    Thanks for all the help guys... I went to the Honda shop today and took a
    look at their Honda manual. Both cam gear marks line up with the top of the
    head... kinda figured that...just making sure :)


    Thanks again,

    Pete
     
    Pete, Apr 26, 2005
    #3
  4. Pete

    John Johnson Guest


    Glad you got it sorted out. FWIW, you really should consider purchasing
    the Honda manual, they're very good. Certainly better than that Haynes
    that's lost in your closet (back of the top shelf, I looked ;-).
     
    John Johnson, Apr 26, 2005
    #4
  5. Pete

    Pete Guest

    Put my CBR back together this weekend.. It runs great..no more chain rattle
    :)
    Bought a new fulmer helmet and a motogp jacket.. now if i can afford some
    gas :p

    Pete
    alias Kent

    here's a pic of my bike http://webpages.charter.net/kgolden
     
    Pete, May 1, 2005
    #5
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