Bugger, Triumph start niet

So, having pretty much come to the conclusion, on the way back from the
French Run, that I was selling the Sprint ST, I decided to give it a
clean for some pics and to install the metric clocks that I had sitting
in the garage.

All done, I decided to turn it around and there's not a peep when I
press the starter button. It goes though all the motions properly but
not so much as a click. I guess the rest of my day wil be spent taking
it apart to get to the connectors to check the various interlocks

Oh, yes, I did put the old clocks back, just in case.

 

Did you try the stand switch?

 

kill switch?
--
Adie (replace spam with nickname to reply)
YZF-R1 : FZ1N : RD350LC
(anyone would think I was partial to Yamahas)
MRO#11 BOTAFOF#7 BOTAFOT#130 DIAABTCOD#17 MIB#24 YTC#16
BOB#15 ex-UKRMMA#22 BOMB#11

 

Only to the extent of scooshing it with electrical cleaner before I
start hunting for the connector.

 

It seems to be working properly, killing the idiot lights as normal.

 

The two connector blocks under the front of the fairing can get damp
and cause problems. One on the right with the connections from the
kill sitch and one on the left with the ignition stuff (from memory).
Might be worth checking since you've just washed it. They're hidden
away in the side panels adjacent to the forks and are accessible from
the front of the bike without taking the panels off.

 

It probably got wetter over the weekend than it did when I washed it

Cheers, I'll have a look.

 

On 02/05/2011 16:51, Higgins wrote:

Well, all the interlocks appear to be working properly and I'm getting
power in all the right places.

I'm getting a 12v switching signal at the starter relay but the coil
ground goes to the ECU and isn't actually at ground. I'm swaying towards
a dodgy ECU or, perhaps more likely, our old friend Datatool.

And I don't have the blanking plug

 

I'm assuming you have checked that the ground connection from battery to
frame/engine/ECU are okay?

 

Well, yes, that's been the focus of the afternoon, around the area of
the clocks, but there's really not much there to disturb.

Now I'm going to pretend that I haven't done anything and start at the
beginning.

I may be some time.

 

use a jump lead from the battery earth to intrument binnacle/frame/engine
etc - I bet you disturbed an earth conection when you were faffing about

 

You'd think.

Unfortunately, motor gremlins know that's how you think and can be
sadistic.

 

I'm with Champ on this one. I recently did some work on my FJR and
despite all the evidence pointing toward the problem being related
to something that I had worked on, I had already decided to fall in
love with an alternative cause, and discarded any observations of
symptoms that didn't agree with it. When I finally decided to check
it out, even though I *knew* I was wasting my time, because I was so
certain I hadn't disturbed it... yep that was it.

BTW, without having a wiring diagram, the description of the problem
points to a missing ground, nothing to do with the ECU or an alarm.
I would expect if the starter relay coil terminal is getting 12V when
the button is pressed, and does not have 12V on it when the button is
not pressed, that the other coil terminal should be permanently
grounded by a solid connection and not subject to the whims of an ECU
or alarm, so I'd look for a loose or broken ground connection somewhere.

 

Logic would suggest so, yes, but the diagram suggests different and that
the low side of the relay coil goes back to the ECU. Bearing in mind
that the neutral switch line also goes to the ECU, it would suggest that
the various interlocks are measured by the ECU rather than physically
interrupting the volts to the starter.

Anyway, got the fairing off now, so that I can properly see where I've
been but domestic life stopped play last night.

 

Not necessarily. It may be something as mundane as being to do with
providing a common ground.

Automotive electrical environments are inherently very noisy and
electronics get very upset if there is too much noise. Making the ground
as near equal as it can be may go some way to hiding issues that would
arise if it weren't but tbh that is all a bit grasping at straws and stuff
and probably fairly close to utter fucking bollox but you never know which
is half the fun and finding the true answer is the other half if you are
the sort of masochist who finds fettling vehicular wiring sexy.


..

 

I managed to replace a little black box near the clocks upside down on
my CBR600RR when I took the fairing apart. Symptoms similar to yours.
It was called the bank angle sensor (BAS) and was fitted to the fairing
near the lights.

 

Tip switch?

Fraser

 

That would be my guess as well. It switches off the bike automatically
if it finds itself upside down. Also called a tip switch. I had a
faulty one on a crashed CBR1000RR and the thing sent me batty trying to
diagnose it.

Fraser

 

Christ. Didn't know such things existed.

 

Dunno if it was the first, but the Honda ST1100 had one in '90. The
early ones were prone to failure and eventually were recalled for an
upgrade. The first time mine went out was in the fast lane of a
freeway. Mindfuck it was. The instant fix was to turn the ignition off
and back on, but it took a hell of a lot more than an instant to learn
that.

I think the way it works is a gravity switch that requires a certain
amount of inertia to flip, so if you just lean the bike over in a turn
it doesn't flip, but if you drop it, it will.