Breaker bar at the ready....

Can someone explain in simple terms why a split link is less robust than
a rivitted link?

 

You get endless chains on the average pushbike nowadays.

 

No. If each is fitted correctly there should probably be no issue with
either. I'm guessing that it may be possible to put on the spring clip
in such a way that it seems secure, but it isn't IYSWIM. Having never
riveted a chain myself I can't comment on whether that scenario is
equally likely. Though I suspect, without any real foundation, that the
'loose' side plate on a riveted link is a tighter fit (hence the need
for a tool or clamps etc.), and so play is less likely to develop.

All I can say, is that going back to the pre o-ring chain days of 5/8 x
3/8, the only time I had chains fail it was the split link. I've also
found split links with very wobbly pins when doing sprocket changes and
replaced them.

--
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+

 

<fx: awaits 'I Lost my leg in freak chain accident' post >

Paul.

 

They really needed 'em, yes. My old CB750F1 was the last model Honda
made with the old weedy chain - the K7 and the F2 got the beefed-up
endless chains. A chain would last 5000 miles, tops, on my F1, and need
adjustment every 300-400 miles.

When they put big beefy chains on the bikes, they made the move to
endless at the same time.

 

On modern chains, they aren't, really. The sideplatesof the split link
goes onto tapered pins - you really have to force the plate on. The clip
is really belt & braces stuff.

There's no lateral force on the sideplate, so little chance of knocking
off the clip.

 

I was surprised how hard it was to get the fucking thing on!

Round 2 about to commence, with beer.

--


Nige,

Land Rover 90
Yamaha R1
Range Rover Vogue

 

In communiqué <1jeow1w.tflenc1jhm4dgN%>,

It wasn't on the one I've just fitted. Just normal thumb pressure
required to put the plate on. It was bright yellow, which makes it easy
to find when in a hurry in the paddock. Yes, I know, buy less pikey
chain. The clip was much higher tech than they used to be though.

Assuming the alignment is spot on perhaps? I suspect that when I was a
callow youth on a Matchless G2 that wasn't always the case. The
home-brewed Rotarini was not utterly perfect in that department, it has
to be said.


--
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+

 

Great tool, had it nailed in 5 minutes

--


Nige,

Land Rover 90
Yamaha R1
Range Rover Vogue

 

Seriously Pete, it's a piece of piss to do it properly with a ball-pein
hammer and a solid lump of steel behind the link. I use a panelbeaters
dolly as the aforementioned solid lump of steel and it does the job
fine.

 

You won't get a racebike past scrutineering with a split link fitted if
you're entering a tarmac event. I've only once used one on a carebike,
and I siliconed the splitlink over to ensure it stayed put and put it
on the wrong side of the chain so the scrutes didn't see it. That was
on that piece of shit RGV250 Danny was meant to be racing - tbh the
chance of the chain throwing itself off was the least of our concerns
with that sack of crap.

 

That's easy for you to say. I'd have to put my reading specs on for a
start or I'd probably peen my pinkie[1].

OK, I might have a go if it ever needs just a new chain, but I'd be
tempted to get a chain and sprockets job done on the tart as part of a
service.

[1] No - my little finger.

--
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+

 

The first model CB750 was notorious for snapping 'em at the cost of a
lot of crankcase damage, although this tended to happen earlier than it
would have on a SOBB.
A mate had his snapped by an MoT tester who couldn't resist taking it
out for a spin around the block (it only being out a couple of years at
that time and it was the first one he'd been on - big Jap fours were
still a rarity Notb). Much sturm and drang ensued when the crankcase
damage became known, but the MoT guy saved his bacon when he spotted
that the chain was actually made of several pieces of shite old BSA
/Norton/Triumph chains riveted together; the owner being a notoriously
tight-arsed git.
Not surprising it snapped.

 

Zimmer 350cc?

 

Well within the scope of Loz's description.

 

I've got a splitter/riveter for chains and still use a "G" clamp and 2 4mm
sockets to press the new plate home.


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

And there aren't many fitting shops will take *proper* care to ensure a
perfectly true wheel alignment. and not doing so results in a fucked new
chaon and a fucked rear sprocket.

I'll carry on doing my own.

--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

My pal's SV650 was >< that close to needing a crankcase when his split link
"let go" and the chain bailed out. I riveted a replacement chain on and it
didn't spit the new one off. It really put me off using split link
fasteners.

--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

Well not unless the "garage" that fitted the chain made sure the run was
true. If not, the side forces can be more than enough to pop a side plate
off if it's held only by a split springy thingy.


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

I bet you thought the holes weren't big enough and contemplated running a
drill through 'em.


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19