Brakes (see sig)

There's a long thread about new lines and overhauling calipers in
ukrm,

but I have to do this job this weekend and I need the specifics.

I think I have all the kit needed, maybe not the grommets? (what
are the sizes/descriptions?)

What have I to look out for?

That big syringe, for refilling bottom up, is that a Halfords item?

Will the info I need be in my Haynes BoL?

 

Howard wrote

Pretty much.

A phenomena with modern brakes that can be an issue is that every now
and then a particular bike decides that the brakes simply will not be
bled. It is an odd one and seems to have to real rhyme or reason to it
but nevertheless it happens every now and then.

The solution seems to be to get hold of one of them new fangled vacuum
bleeding tools hand pump whatsitsnames. Although if you happen to have
one it does seem to make good sense to me to use it to bleed the brakes
in the first place and thus save all the faffing about with rubber tubes
with screws in the end and jam jars full of paint stripper just waiting
to be kicked over like we had to do in the good old days.

 

err yes, I started that. I was only expecting a "use/don't use" and a
bit of explanation if I was lucky! But to save you wading through it -
- keep all fittings spotlessly clean,
- don't use any grease of any desription,
- torque to the right setting to make sure the crush washers work
properly.

Mityvac is what you're talking about (or I think H-G do their own
version). There are the Crufts winning pouch's danglies. I could rave
on, but I'll try and hold back.... anyway www.mityvac.co.uk and the
guy there sems to understand customer service. Sent mine through -
there was a crack in the little "cup" that holds the brake fluid and
he sent another by return of post when I called him. Even included
spare lids. Just over £40 with P&P IIRC. Top product.

Cheers

 

Got one from H-G & it turned out to be a Mityvac. Marvellous piece of
kit.

 

Suckers.

 

I was thinking more of that big syringe that pushes the fluid up
from the bottom, (rather than filling the system from the top)

 

Yes I read thro' that, and took notes!

I am also doing the calipers, but I don't see how I will get it
finished in one day.

 

Howard says...

Give it to that Danny twat from ukrm, half an hour...job done.

 

DANNY!

 

Old Scotoiler bottle - cleaned to buggery, and flushed through 1st.
Well that's what I've heard - I'll stick with my Mityvac

Cheers

 

Well that's the rear disc changed, took about 2 hours.

The old lines are all off at the front, and the calipers split.

Should I have done something to get the pistons out before I
reached this stage?

Regardless! Is it a trip to the garage to use their air lines to
blow them out?

 

No, just walk over to your air compressor, attach the blower nozzle,
stick it in the fitting on the caliper and press the button... put
a rag in the middle of the caliper so the pistons don't smack into
the caliper, and go easy on the air, you don't need much.

Eh? What's that? You don't have an air compressor? Get one.
Indispensible for working on bikes and cars...

http://www.screwfix.com

Search for item #64562 Wolf 24Ltr Compressor 2hp 230V

?99.99

For another ?30 you can have one with a 50l tank.

 

I have a CO2 tank (kindly donated from the local pub) with the neccesarry
attachments, ready to use as a compressor. The compressor I did have in
the garage was allegedly 2 bar, but couldn't blow the hairs off a barbers floor.

 

For pushing the pisdinks out of calipers, it should do fine. You don't
need a lot of pressure.

 

Unless they're fuct. At which point, you submerge them in penetrating oil
for a couple of days, then pump them out with a grease gun.

 

AOL

 

The MityVac can be a real pain to get working properly. First thing is that
air gets sucked past the threads of the loosened bleeder. To correct this
the bleeder must be removed and tefelon tape applied to the threads. It's
also not a great idea to leave the tape on the threads as it can hinder
seating of the bleeder when tightening. So taking the bleeder out to remove
the tape after bleeding is just not the way.

Also the tubing supplied with the MityVac will leak during suction,
especially when wet with brake fluid.
The Mityvac will not bleed a stubborn master cylinder either.

I bought one to replace the fluid on a vfr800 linked system. Far easier to
do the job without the Miytvac.
That $60 would have been far better spent on a bag of pot.

b

 

Calipers sorted, no prob. I used an old style hand-pump, and the
pistons popped out with a delightful 'pop'.

Fucking bastard bleeding bleeding brakes!!!!!!!!!

Everything is in place, except the brake fluid!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

BASTARD

I needed this bike tomorrow a.m. Now I shall have to take the bus.

Dribbles of brake fluid have appeared at the nipple, nothing to
make the pads move.

On checking the master cylinder I take off the banjo and pump.
There is pressure there and suction when I release the lever.

Banjo back on and it's as tho' there's no cups on the piston. No
pressure either, but dribbles from the bleeding tube.

I want some bleeding answers please.

Please, before I hit beloved who has been supremely patient with
me this weekend!

 

Eh? Quick smear of grease around the nipple (ooh-err!) and you're
sorted.

Never had that happen to mine.

--
Nigel - Manufacturer of the "Champion-105" range of rearsets

WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41
ZZR1100, Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner",
Honda GL1000K2 Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big"