brake bleeding

If he were closer it would be fixed by now , have impact might have
travelled

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"Closer" than what to what?

N/

 

sighhhhh

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Port Macquarie, very near the roundabout at the hospital end of lake road.

 

I got it off, but it has cracked, grr. I didn't do your method, I tried
another (tapping the blunt side of a hacksaw blade against the gap),
which worked - the screw came out easy, then I dropped the lid which
cracked. I suspect I'd cracked it earlier but I was listening closely
for any odd noises and didn't hear any. Conversely it's not that heavy
and fell onto carpet, which I don't think would break it.

I figure the way this is going I won't be able to get a new cap and have
to get a new cylinder

Either way though I can't seem to get any pressure up at the front to
push stuff out. I can pump the lever 50 times and it pushes about 1cm of
fluid out, very slowly.

 

There there atec.

Maybe you know where he is. Maybe you know where I am. Maybe you even
know where you are.

I only know one of those and I'll leave the answer as an exercise to the
reader

N/

 

Works in both case sometimes anyway. On my bike it was a stretch to
reach, and I couldn't get good hand pressure otherwise. More
importantly, I wanted two hand on the bleeder end, so I can operate the
spanner, and hold the tube & jar to stop it from flapping around aimlessly.

It's not just oil. It corrodes and destroys many substances, and does
a bloody good job on painted surfaces too. The less of it I have lying
around the floor, the better.
Some of the higher temp/performance fluids are even more corrosive.

You need to ensure a positive pressure on the hydraulic line down to
the bleeder nipple at all times. The moment you stop, there is risk of
the master piston coming back, and sucking air into the system.
Likewise you need to apply pressure BEFORE you open the bleeder, again
due to the risk (pressure, temperature whatever) that opening the
bleeder will let air in.

It's easy to say you're pumping it out anyway, but it doesn't work
like that. Once you get air into the bleeder, you have to exercise it
to work the air bubble up to the master cylinder that will eventually
expel it (you'll see bubbles at the top).
And THAT takes time.

If you're letting air in, you're fighting a losing battle.
You'll get air INTO the system by far faster than you can get it OUT.

Dodgy seals might not show until the system is properly bled AND you
stomp on it. Just because they're faulty, doesn't mean they're going to
dribble at an obvious rate.

But the fact they're worse now than they were before only means you've
done it wrong.
There might be more than one *right* way to bleed brakes, but clearly
you didn't do it any one of those ways.

That's ok, I do mine as a matter of course when I first get the
bicycle/Motorbike/car whatever. It is *standard* practice and
recommendation that the fluid is replaced every two years.
I'll swear black and blue, I've never met an old vehicle that had good
fluid in it. I'll also swear green and red that fluid is the same the
bloody factory put in.

So what you're doing is a good thing. Just perhaps not in a good way.
Besides, you want a real challenge? Try a fully sealed (non
reservoir) system. They're simpler in concept, but more difficult in
practice, since you need gravity to help you do it, plus pressure on a
nowhere near standard orifice. Bicycles are easy enough, but bloody
gokarts are heavy.

it's just practice.

I'm still not convinced it's that bad you can't recover. Nothing more
than the correct procedure might take a little longer to allow for the air.

 

You will not get any pressure at all if you have the bleed screw open when
you are pumping

 

I rang him and explained how to "oil can"it

it should be working now

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Use a power bleeder that runs off an air compressor. I couldn't go back
to the manual way. About $150 from Repco. It is well worth it.
Alternatively find one you can borrow.

Fraser

 

Chances are the rubber seal is sticking shut. Try tapping a screwdriver
in GENTLY.

Fraser

 

While you are there
do you happen to have a pair of 38's handy?

for an NKT superhet

 

No I carry no hot fets any more , there is a bloke on qrz who deals
in them however

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Okay thanks I will try there

 

Easiest way for bikes seems to be the fish tank or similar airline and a
LARGE Syringe from a vet. Suck out the old fluid from the top and
discard, pump new stuff in from the bottom by attaching the tube to the
bleeder and pump the new fluid into the system. 2 syringes come in handy
as when you see the new fluid come into the top, suck all the old stuff
out. Tighten the bleeder and you're all done, bikes can be a PITA
because unlike cars the brake lines al all vertical and the bubbles want
to go back up the lines. Adding fluid from the bottom helps stop this.
All gear needed ads up to a few bucks and can be reused.

--
Brad Leyden
6° 43.5816' S 146° 59.3097' E WGS84
To mail spam is really hot but please
reply to thread so all may benefit
(or laugh at my mistakes)

 

That might be the easiest cheap way but not easier than a power bleeder.
Attach power bleeder to nipple, start sucking, crack nipple, fill into
reservoir as required. Job done. I can bleed all the brakes on the
bike in 15 minutes that way.

 

Of all the advice in this thread this was the one that I felt confident
having a go at - it seems dead simple and logical. I'm pretty sure I
could do it that way (aside from not draining the top cylinder I can't
see how you could **** that up).

That said the wife has less faith in me than that and it's in the shop
getting sorted.