Bearing removal - They're finally out!!!

Ok, so all the bearings are finally out of the ZX10. Here's a list of how
much pain and suffering they caused me.

Steering head bearings - Cut with a dremel until the were very thin, and
then cracked off with a tire iron.
Steering head races - Welded a bead around the inside of the race, cut with
a dremel, and prised out with a screwdriver. (Next time, the races are
staying in if they are still in good nick.)
Rear wheel bearings - Tapped out with a hammer and drift - very easy.
Front wheel bearings - Used a dremel to remove the inner side of one
bearing, then used a hammer and drift to remove the bearing on the other
side. Final bearing part was bead welded and then bashed out. This was by
FAR the nastiest set of bearings ever. They had been wedged in too tight by
whoever changed them last (and had rusted in place, due to using the freezer
technique (the frost that forms then causes the bearing to stick WELL AND
TRULY in place when it corrodes the metal)) and so the spacer did not move
AT ALL until I had removed half of one of the bearings.
Suspension needle roller bearings - Some only required some gentle tapping
with a drift and hammer, however some required pushing out with a press.
Shock absorber bush - Pushed out with a press. Made a very loud "bang".
Quite satisfying.
Grease nipples - Some came out easily with an 8mm spanner, 3 of them had to
be ground off with an angle grinder and then "easy-out"ed.

Now I've just got to put all the new ones in. Based on my experience with
the front wheel, I'm not going to use the "freezer" method, but am going to
make up myself some wooden "blanks" with a hole saw, and then gently tap
them into place using the blank as a shock absorber so that the bearings
don't get damaged.

Then all I have to do is get some bar risers made up (any suggestions on who
to do this in NSW?) and brackets for the brakes.

 

Might even be ready for the aus.moto Tarago rally!

 

You'll damage the seats. Heat the bearing seats to ~100°C first,
so that they'll shrink to fit. Works better than the freezer
method because the temperature differential is larger,
and the coefficient of expansion is larger for aluminium as well.
And there's no frost

If the bearing seats are already loose, use Loctite 641 bearing
seat goo ... works well in the XLV.

And you want to drift in the outside of the bearing, not the
inside. Best bet is to use a socket of the same OD as the bearing
(or a press)

-----sharks

 

Yeh yeh, use the OD sized metal drift, can be water pipe black pipe brass
pipe etc. ya need the solidity to get them 'home'.