Bearing puller...

OK, so wheres the best place to buy a bearing puller so that I can yank the
ones out of the wheels on the bike?...

Only ones I can see are the three legged variety, which look a little large
to go instide the hub of a bike wheel...

 

What's wrong with a drift and hammer?

 

Probably nothing, but Im taking what the manual says as the way to remove
the buggers..

So whats the accepted way of removing bearings using said tools then?...

 

There is a tubular spacer between the bearings. Waggle the drift in the
space between the bearings and the spacer will begin to move just slightly.
This will allow you to get the drift onto the inner race of one of the
bearings and give it a thump or two.

Push the spacer so that you can now hit the inner race on the other side or
180 degrees from where you first whacked it. Proceed like this until
bearing is free. Be prepared for the drift to fall off the bearing
regularly. The spacer will fall out and you then have free reign to knock
lumps out of the other bearing.

When supporting the wheel using this method try and spread the weight as
evenly as you can and don't lean on discs.

 

Spike wrote

Halfords?

 

<Snip>

Outstanding..

Now, wheres the best place to get oil seals from? The bearings are
available all over for about a tenner, but no one seams to do seals...

Or is it a case of Mr Yamaha only?

Or can one re-use the old seals?...

 

Just use bearings with a -ZZ code after the number. So something like:
6032-ZZ will be the number you need from any bearing suppliers, where "6032"
is the number from your old bearings.
The "-ZZ" bit denotes double sealed type. No separate seals needed. Also,
don't forget when refitting the new bearings press/drift *only* on the outer
race, **never** the inner one as you will **** them.

JB

 

So something like this then?...

http://tinyurl.com/a9kjk

are there different bearings for right and left sides? Or is that a stupid
question?!

 

Spike wrote

It is a question I might have asked. I don't know if that is any help
or not though.

 

That's not as daft as it sounds. I do believe the odd bike has different
sized bearing on each side. If you have separate sprocket carrier check if
it has a bearing too.

 

a a

There we go. That's the two "a's" I forgot in the above.

 

OK, so Ive found the code for the front bearing, but can I find a code for
the rear?... Can I ****...

Any pointers people?... the usual suspects have come up with bugger all..

Also, is their a preffered brand of bearing, or within reason, will any
do?...

 

Check out the M&P catalogue or their website. This will give you the correct
beraing numbers for your bike.

SKF is my preference. Any good European bearing will do. Don't go for the
cheapest Chinese offering though.


JB

 

If you can get them then I would say to get Koyo. They are usually OEM and
if you get them from a bearing supplier they will be about half the price
from the dealer. Take the back wheel off and have a look at the bearing if
you're stuck. They are stamped with the code. If you can't see it and you
don't need the bike till it's done then whack them out and take them to the
supplier. I would probably have a look at the fronts too. If you've got
the code from a book or dealer they are often wrong IME.

 

If this method proves fruitless there is an alternative (and IMHO
easier/more successfull) method. In essence prise/rip out the dust
seal and then the ball cage from the most accessible (usually inner)
bearing. You can then knock the individual ball bearings together and
remove the inner race. The spacer between the two wheel bearings
should then come out. The other (still complete) bearing can then be
driven out squarely from behind. It after a decent thump with a lump
hammer it appears to be welded in, heat the offending bearing with a
blow torch. Once one bearing has been removed re-assemble the
remaining bearing (stand wheel upright, insert ball bearings then
cage and reposition the ball bearings. Don't bother with the mangled
cage - a layer of grit will keep the ball bearings in roughly the
right position) and drive out from the opposite side.

HTH

Jim

 

<shudder>

 

Koyo, SKF, in that order. If you ever get offered RHP, decline them with
a vengeance.

 

*waves*

Got the fucking Tshirt for that one - and for repeated, related
offences.

 

Pip says...

I've spent ages whacking a fork stanchion up and down trying to get the
oil seal out, before remembering there's a circlip in there holding it
in place.

 

You forgot the bit about taking the wheel around to your mates garage
and heating the bastard up until it glowed white hot, and knocking ****
out of it with a lump hammer and it still refused to move, AND
considering using the press in the corner to push the "likkel" bearing
out but fortunately, the wheel was to wide to go under.
and (it was more than an hour) the penny finally
dropped......oh........theres a circlip in it...) no worries pal....yer
secret is safe with me.