Batteries And Stuff

Discussion in 'UK Motorcycles' started by Steve P, May 7, 2004.

  1. Steve P

    Steve P Guest

    I'm 99% sure my battery is goosed. After a week on the Optimate while I
    waited for some bits, the bike started fine 5 or 6 times while I was
    checking bits and bobs worked as I put them back on. However inevitably
    on the test ride (lights on) when I stopped to get some food for the SO
    it wouldn't start. I managed to bump it and it was okay, once I'd found
    a hill :)

    Anyway I'm going to get a new battery tomorrow but I thought I'd check
    the alternator first. I've seen people stick a voltmeter across the
    battery with the bike running and check that there's 'stuff'. What
    should this be, 12v or is it more if the alt is working properly?

    As I said pretty sure it's the battery, but best to check before I get a
    new one. As Ben said the other week running lights on all the time + a
    Evo alarm + short journeys = dead battery in 3 years :(

    Cheers
     
    Steve P, May 7, 2004
    #1
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  2. There do seem to be a lot of "my battery's dead" threads in 'ere and it got
    me to wondering how much bike batteries cost these days? I haven't bought
    one for *mumble* years but I'm sure that if, maybe, ~£30 worth of battery
    was causing me hassle every day I'd be straight out to get the charging
    system tested/buy a new battery. If they're ~£60, of course, it'd be a
    different matter.

    I know bikes are easier to bump than cars but you can only waddle away from
    junctions and have the back wheel lock up after a few yards so many times
    before it gets quite embarrassing.
    Problem is, alternators can lie (or so it seems to me) and still show 12-14v
    but not be charging properly. IANAE but it's to do with Amps too, I think.
    Not enough of 'em.

    ....Or are bike batteries just not up to the job, generally speaking, coz
    they have to be small and light?

    Si
     
    Mungo \two sheds\ Toadfoot, May 7, 2004
    #2
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  3. Steve P

    Steve P Guest

    For my bike a cheap battery is £20 and a Yuasa £50. The reason I asked
    is because I've bought a new one in the past and then still had
    problems. If I can eliminate the risk of this I'll be happy.
    Got some funny looks waddling down the pavement in the dark last night !
    F*ck it then I'll just buy a new battery anyway and if it doesn't sort
    it take it to the dealers.
     
    Steve P, May 7, 2004
    #3
  4. Steve P

    HooDooWitch Guest

    I had the same problem. My Optimate went through a period of showing
    the orange light in the morning - it's usually green after overnight
    charge. My battery went dead on me one morning so I fixed[1] the
    Optimate and everything seems sort of OK now. I'm still a bit suspect
    that it's not quite fully functioning as if it were new. It may need
    another fixing session.

    [1] fixed = kicked & shook it, vigorously.
     
    HooDooWitch, May 7, 2004
    #4
  5. Oh yes, it's worth having it tested first if the shop's not going to charge
    you for half an hour's labour, in which case it's probably cheaper to just
    buy a new battery.

    Si
     
    Mungo \two sheds\ Toadfoot, May 7, 2004
    #5
  6. Steve P

    HooDooWitch Guest

    Eeeek!
     
    HooDooWitch, May 7, 2004
    #6
  7. Steve P wrote on 07/05/2004 :
    With the engine not running, nothing switched on and the battery fully
    charged, the voltage across the battery should be around 12.5volts.
    Much less than this could indicate a failed or shorted cell.

    With the lights turned on and the engine running if the battery is
    being charged correctly, the voltage across the battery should be 13.8
    to 14.2 volts. It should initially start charging at around 14.2, then
    drop back to 13.8 volts once the battery attains a full charge.

    If it is not doing the above, the charging system is at fault otherwise
    blame a failing battery.
     
    Harry Bloomfield, May 7, 2004
    #7
  8. Steve P

    Steve P Guest

    Nice one, that's what I was after. I'm off to check at lunchtime since
    there is a choice of battery (again) so I need to get the right one.
    I'll dig the meter out and have a quick play.

    As I said I suspect the battery as it was charged fully by the charger
    but dies pretty quickly after.
     
    Steve P, May 7, 2004
    #8
  9. Steve P

    Ben Guest

    And if you're going to test this, bear in mind the alternator on the
    GSXR doesn't start charging unless the revs are over 5.5k[1] rpm.
    This is why town riding with the lights on fucks the battery, it just
    never gets charged.



    [1] Around there, it's got the exact amount in the Haynes book
    somewhere.
     
    Ben, May 7, 2004
    #9
  10. Steve P

    Steve P Guest

    Ta muchly that's a big help. Mind you it's going to annoy my next door
    neighbour who's on nights at the moment and will probably be asleep :)

    Out of interest does anyone have a rough idea how long would the
    alternator would take to charge a fairly flat battery? I ask because I
    was out for about 40 minutes last night so thought the battery might
    have been a bit charged. Mind you it was dark so lights were on!
     
    Steve P, May 7, 2004
    #10
  11. Steve P

    dwb Guest

    How fast is 5.5k in first gear?
     
    dwb, May 7, 2004
    #11
  12. Steve P

    Ben Guest

    25ish I think. 6.5-7k was 30 IIRC.
     
    Ben, May 7, 2004
    #12
  13. Steve P

    Mark Olson Guest

    According to http://www.pro-libertate.com/gsxr1000/cear-calc.xls, it is
    36.8 mph.

    BTW, I don't believe that 5.5k is the RPM at which the GSX-R1000
    alternator output exceeds the electrical load on the system, it
    sounds too high by at least 2k.
     
    Mark Olson, May 7, 2004
    #13
  14. You might be right, but that doesn't mean that the system
    will *allow* charging...
     
    William Grainger, May 7, 2004
    #14
  15. Steve P

    dwb Guest

    Stay in first then :)
     
    dwb, May 7, 2004
    #15
  16. Steve P

    Mark Olson Guest

     
    Mark Olson, May 7, 2004
    #16
  17.  
    William Grainger, May 7, 2004
    #17
  18. Steve P

    Steve P Guest

    Too noisy around town, don't want to be one of those 'noisy bikers' :).
    I don't think my neck could stand it either, nice jerky FI would give me
    whiplash.
     
    Steve P, May 7, 2004
    #18
  19. Steve P

    Ben Guest

    Steve has a 750.
     
    Ben, May 7, 2004
    #19
  20. Steve P wrote
    It depends.

    First of all will have to provide enough current to run the bike,
    somewhere about 20-25% max revs. Once it has power to spare it can
    charge the battery. A decent blat for an hour should see even a fully
    flat one charged to it's max.
     
    steve auvache, May 7, 2004
    #20
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