OK, picked up my 600 Bandit, but without a Haynes[1] or Service Manual I have a couple of questions, one of which is pretty stupid. First, how do the rear pads come out? The pins are solid in the caliper and I can't tell if they are a push fit or a threaded fit - either way there's nothing to grip to turn them out. Second, and this is pretty stupid, which bolt is the oil drain? There's two likely candidates, one is an allen bolt, recessed near the front of the engine where a couple of oil hoses go (under the filter), the second and more likely looks to be on the bottom of the sump. This looks like a 20-21mm bolt, I don't have a spanner to fit this, or I would've had a go, the one thing stopping me is that fact that neither bolt looks to have moved from new, neither does the filter, even though it's claimed (receipt to prove) that this was done 100 miles ago (even though it's been stood 3 years). So - numbnuts questions - but somebody with a Bandit must have done these? On the plus side, it runs and sounds ok. Just needs chain and back pads, plus a service. Thanks [1] One on ebay.... -- Mike Buckley RD350LC2 GSF600S http://www.toastyhamster.org BONY#38
The pins that hole the pads in are meant to be a push fit in their holes. In practice though, they seize in good and solid. They are retained by a spring clip that is hidden behind a little pop off plastic cover on the bottom of the caliper body. If they're not seized, you can grip the little pins with a pair of small pliers, having removed the spring clip first, wiggle and they'll come out. If they're seized in, the caliper will have to come off, be split and the pins taken out that way. The oil drain plug is right under the sump, at the lowest point in roughly in line with where the side stand mounts on the frame. Use a new washer when you change the oil, and a torque wrench to tighten it back up, as it's alloy and prone to stripping if done up too tight.
They're a push fit, and you've discovered the maintenance glitch that has reduced Bandit owners to tears. So do this now: Get a spare set of pads ready. Soak the pins in Plus-Gas (it'll dribble onto the pads, which is why you need the spare set). Get a blowtorch and play it on the pins. Don't worry about setting the Plus-Gas alight - you can always blow it out. Clamp a pair of Mole Grips onto the pins, pray, twist, and pull, and if you're lucky they'll come out Clean them up with wet and dry, apply a liberal smear of copper grease, and re-fit with the new pads. You may find, OTOH, that they're seized solid. That's when it gets tricky. But if you manage to get the buggers out, you'ver saved yourself hours of hassle in the future. Can't help you with the drain plug stuff- sorry.
(The Older Gentleman) struggled to ejaculate: A common dodge is to whip the caliper off, get it in the vice and drill a 5mm hole through the caliper towards the far end of the pin. Then you can get a 4mm drift in to pop the pin out. It is typically stupid (and, IME, typically Suzuki) thoughtless design. A pair of blind pins stuck across the pads at the bottom of the rear caliper, where they will pick up all the shit in the world: they're fucking /bound/ to corrode in place. I've done a couple of these: you need the caliper off the bike - First off, get the spring clips out and try a /good/ pair of pliers or Moles on the head of the pins. Twist and see if you can crack the corrosion. Have a go at the pads and ensure they're not stuck to the pins. Failing that, tap the head square on with a drift and medium hammer to see if you can crack the corrosion. Getting a small Mole on the pin where exposed across the pads, and effect a twist while tapping is a good one. An old favourite of mine - the small sharp cold chisel - at a steep angle into the head of the pin and try to drive it round, breaking the hold of corrosion. There's always heat, and then you're into PlusGas and ultimately drilling/punching out turf. The caliper on the rear of the RF are even worse, if that helps ;-) <steps in> It's the big 21(ish)mm bolt to the rear. As Muck said, you need a new washer (or at least anneal the old one) before you replace the bolt.
Hmm, bugger. Well I reckon the rear pads have enough meat to get through the MOT, so if I flog it in the next few months this won't be my problem, on the other hand the caliper was overhauled recently (lots of copa-slip) so this could be the excuse I need to buy a proper pair of moles. Thanks all for the advice. -- Mike Buckley RD350LC2 GSF600S http://www.toastyhamster.org BONY#38
It is also an idea to drill the holes in the caliper ever so slightly to prevent the same thing happening again. Ho yuss, hours of fun.
A square inch of rice krispies packet with a hole in the middle works well as a washer, too. I don't think the CBR's got a sump washer at all.
Whinging Courier says... Mine has, still if you torque it up to about 80lb/ft I don't suppose it'll need one...
I haven't got a torque wrench[1] but I'm sure I didn't do it up as tight as that[2]. [1] It got thieved a couple of house moves ago. [2] Finger tight then about 1/4 of a turn. Did you have your last London drinks btw? Sorry I missed it if you did...
Whinging Courier says... Good job really. I was tongue in cheek. Sounds about right. This Friday, I'll send a post out later today.
Whinging Courier wrote: The pin holes on my Bandit caliper are drilled slightly bigger, saves a lot of hassle. Another sticking point, is the bolt that holds the caliper onto the torque arm. Steel bolt, alloy caliper body... nice.
Never had a problem with that. I might feel differently about the rat now I've seen it properly. It's white and furry in scary looking places.
