BajaDesigns DualSport Kit on WR450 Questions

I just finished installing a new BajaDesigns dual sport kit on my brand
new WR450...

Almost. There were a couple things that didn't make sense, so I didn't
do them.

First, it says:
"the stator on he electric-start WR's is not powerful enough to charge
the stock battery and run the dual-sport kit at the same time. For this
kit to function properly, the bike's stator must be sent to Baja Designs
for modification. The cost of the service is $30. If this is not done,
the battery will discharge anytime the headlight is turned on
(regardless of bulb size)."

HUH? It came with a 60/55 watt bulb, and they want me to switch it to a
35/35 watt bulb. How the heck is it drawing enough power from a rear
break light (same bulb) and turn signals to use MORE power than stock?
The little LED for high beam? The license plate light? Is that it?

Which leads to the second question. "The stock rectifier/regulator is
not compatible with the motified stator. It must be replaced with the
Baja Designs rectifier/regulator for the battery to charge."

Ok, well, if I didn't change my stator, I don't need to swap regulators...

I guess at worst, my battery will run dead. But, it seemed pretty
extreem to rewind the stator for a brake light, LED (high beam
indicator), and license plate light. It's already an electric start
bike with headlight and tail light.

So, can someone put this in perspective for me? Watts wise or something
I can understand from an electrical draw perspective. They wanted me to
swap in the 35/35 watt bulb from my 60/65 watt factory bulb also (which
I haven't done). ??? HUH?

 

Sounds like somebody did a simple worst-case estimate. The turn
signals filaments draw (IIRC) 21 watts each when they're on. I
believe a DOT-legal brake light is also 21 watts when it's on.

The actual extra draw is less, because the duty cycle on the signals
is only about 50%, but if you're stuck at an intersection, holding
the brakes with the signals on, figure about 40 watts of extra load
on an idling engine. My bikes won't charge at factory idle with the
brakes and blinkers on.

Without knowing more about the OEM-vs-Baja stator/RR it's hard to
guess why they suggest modifying them. Bumping the idle speed up
1-200 rpm is probably sufficient and easy to test. With a rewind
of the stator and a new RR I'd think you could swap in a higher
wattage headlight or add running lights. Otherwise it does not seem
worth the trouble.

bob prohaska

 

I found out on thumpertalk.com that the Baja Designs kit takes the
headlight off the AC side, and puts it on the DC circuit. So, they need
a bit more power on the DC side, and to deal with that, they suggest the
new stator and rectifier.

Putting in LED tail lights and license plate lights will help reduce the
draw, and maybe I can keep the 55/60 watt headlight.

 

If it's a single winding alternator it does not make very much difference
whether the headlight is on the AC or DC side of the charging system.

If the bike has a separate AC-only winding for the headlight (like my
'86 Honda tlr200 trials bike) then why not just leave the headlight
wired to the original winding? I don't think DOT rules require that
the headlight have battery backup, only the tail and signals.

That will help, but not much, they're only 5 W bulbs. LED turn and brake
lights would help much more.

Is there a wiring diagram visible on the Net somewhere?

bob prohaska

 

Varys from state to state, but I didn't need it. Unfortunately, I
already did everything in the Baja kit (except the stator and
rectifier), as per the instructions, and not sure I could retrace it
backwards. For now, it's daylight and dirt only for my WR, so the
headlight stays off until I finish the Baja Designs program.

If I knew then what I know now, I'd have done it all myself without a
kit. But it's that always the way?

I didn't think the turn signals pulled that much. But the brake
light/tail light bulb is a combo, so the LED would also, saving on both.

on thumpertalk.com, in the WR400+whatever forum, there is a long, long
discussion. Not much fact, but I think they figured it out. (maybe).

I wish I was 100% sure what was going on, but I don't.

 

Assuming standard (ie, OLD) style flasher modules, you may
/need/ the power draw to get the unit to flash properly. With just LEDs
you may either get a very rapid flickering, or no flashing at all.

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