Baffled but not rattled

Those late leavers at the EOSM will know what a racket the Quota's
baffles were making.

Well, no more. I performed "letter box" surgery on the old collector
box: I cut open three sides of a rectangle at the top front, then
folded it back to expose the internals.

It's now all welded and quiet and the Shite Old Welder only jammed up
once!

The only downer was when I decided that, as the exhausts were off, I'd
better check the engine front mounting bolt.

Oh dear, oh dear. Here's hoping that no major surgery will be required
for a good long time.

 

Which were summarily removed?

Seized perchance?

Know anyone with an Oxy kit? You *will* need it. Takes less than 5 mins to
free up no matter how seized. All 4 of the last Guzzi lumps I've had to
remove have had this very problem. It only takes moment once a year to
slide the bolt out and slap a bit of copaslip on there.

JB

 

Since I gained a minor collection of timing chain covers with a section
of front engine bolt in them [1] I give the front bolt a turn every time
I change the oil or piss about with the front end.


[1] How difficult would it be for, say, a well known home engineer to
drill the old seized bolt out and fit steel inserts?

 

It made some interesting sounds. I'm going to have to sort my Bandits
breaking up baffles out before I get it back on the road, and the end of
the silencer where it goes into the collector box.

I've proved now, that I can weld 1.something mm steel with an arc
welder, but I really think that I'll get it done properly in stainless
steel by a good tig welder.

 

He'd find it very easy (1).

You'd probably find it very easy to knock out the broken bolt
yourself if you put the cover in the oven at home and warmed it up
enough for the casing to expand and free off the bolt.

(1) Assuming you mean that nice Mr Eaton.

 

Tried that. These fuckers weld themselves in place.

 

Alloy engine case, steel bolt by any chance? Is it a straight through
bolt, or is it a blind hole?

 

Bring one to Donington next week, I'll have a look at it when I get a
bit of spare time. I'll almost certainly be able to get the seized
bolt out but small lathes are a rarity in my life so making a sleeve
will have to be passed on to someone else.

 

Got a Bernzomatic mapp gas set - some lowlife swiped my big mapp gas
rig.

Well, the plan is not to worry about it until engine surgery is
needed. Then I'll simply(!) remove the front cover with right lower
rail attached (the left will come off as it's only under the nut) and
apply serious heat as suggested.

I the meantime I'll give it the occasional plusgas & belt with a
Universal Adjuster to prevent it deteriorating further.

 

Seriously, 'Oxy' *is* the only option. Localised heat: *lots* of energy.
Anything welse is just a waste of time. It really does work every time.

JB

 

Actually, no, it would almost certainly bugger the mixture and the
engine pinks a bit in warm weather as it is. Without a Power Commander
or similar there's limited adjustment available to the top-end
mixture.

I really, really regret not buying a set of aftermarket pipework/chip
when I had the chance.

 

Fark. I see a new front engine cover in your future.

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, sweller

Piece of piss. You know where I am.

--
Wicked Uncle Nigel - Manufacturer of the "Champion-105" range of rearsets
and Ducati Race Engineer.

WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41
SBS#39 Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner",
Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big"
Suzuki TS250 "The Africa Single" Yamaha GTS1000

 

Certainly makes sense. Unfortunately I've never access to oxy gear when
I've needed to remove one and have always had to resort to the hacksaw
blade wrapped in a cloth method.

I did use an angle grinder once. Messy.

Hence my distaste for them for doing that kind of work.

 

....and guess what are like hens teeth in the breakers.

 

Fark. I see a new front engine cover in your future.[/QUOTE]

Well, if it comes down to it, I'm prepared to use deadly force.

Er, how long do Guzzi timing chains last?

 

Well, if it comes down to it, I'm prepared to use deadly force.

Er, how long do Guzzi timing chains last?[/QUOTE]

A surprisingly long time. They'll clank and rattle for years, to no ill
effect. Trouble is, ShiteOldBigGuzzis[1] didn't have a proper tensioner
- just a guide. Some people modded V50 tensioners to fit.

Gear drive conversion. YKIMS.

[1] Anything using the old 850/1000 engine and its derivatives.

 

They're supposed to be good for 20 - 30K on the big twins. Mine's done
35K and is still quiet.

Yes they do. Some have manual ones which are a bit of a pisser but
mine's got an 850 automatic one. I'll try to dig out a picture later.

 

Oh! My old Spadas didn't - neither of them. Just a basic guide.

 

ITYF that was a manual adjuster.
The guide slides, IIRC, R-L. You move it across against the chain to
provide the tension and then nip the screws down.