Axle grease.

My kawasaki manual doesn't seem to include details of what to lubricate
the axle with.

Since I've got it all to bits (the brake is now completely in bits
waiting LM grease and reassembly!) it seems sensible to regrease the
going round parts.

I'm clutching a pot of castrol LM grease with 'NLGI 2' and 'lithium
multipurpose grease for general greasing up to 120 C'

I suspect I shouldn't use it with a partner, but is this wrong for axles?

 

Ordinary LM grease is fine - I've used it on axles for years.

 

This is amazing news.... I *might* be able to have dismantled a bike and
put it back together in ONE WEEKEND!!!!!

Thanks for the v quick response.


*writes down a number of chickens*

 

Its fine. While you are in there, and everything is dismantled, take the
time to clean out the chain adjusters where the axle goes through and rub a
small amount of grease in there.

One bodge/inspired mod < delete as applicable > worth doing is making some
shims up for the cush drive. A couple of soft drink cans will yield
sufficient material. Three layers of Coke can twixt cush rubber and hub in
each slot will get rid of that bloody awful slop in the cush and help
smooth out the final drive a little.

 

Rich girls they use vaseline.

 

Or buy some new cush drive rubbers

--


Nige,

BMW K1200S
Range Rover Vogue

 

<fx:wavy lines>

Hmmm, there appears to be a lot of slop in the cush drive. That can't be
good. I know, I'll buy a new rubber set for it!.

<fx:getting covered in shyte whilst fitting>

Oh bollocks. There is still a lot of slop and I'm financially down to no
benefit.

<fx:wavy lines end>

They really are shockingly bad, even new ones have more slop than a pig
farm.

 

Pirsig has a lot to answer for.

 

Poor girls they use lard....

 

I used LM grease and I've just been for a good hard ride. I'm going to
be sad to sell it now.

 

Did the Earth move for you Darling?

 

It just whizzed past quickly and went lumpy when I jumped the speedbumps.

 

It's far safer to use strips of old leather, rather than loosely laid
in strips of metal that could work their way into bearings etc if they
become dislodged.

 

The cush drive is that plasticy stuff you can see when the sprocket and
carrier fall off, right? It's actually pretty snug when you wedge it all
back together.

I didn't expect the wheel to collapse into three segments the second it
was released from the axle!

 

Yellow grease, as opposed to black, red or copper coloured.

HTH

Paul.

 

Yep, well, usually rubbery actually.

Sounds about right

Sprocket & carrier; wheel... what was the third segment? Or was that
the cush rubbers?

 

On the ER-5, they can't do any damage or work in to a bearing housing, but
yeah, strips of leather would work too.

ATB I used to work for had ER-5s, they all got shimmed. Current ATB uses
ER-5s, they've been shimmed, after wasting cash on new rubbers. 5 degrees
of slop in the buggers before. 0 after.

 

The crappy old drum brake that works beautifully now and I'm still
tragically proud about.

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, The Older

Oh, TFFT.

I thought I was the only one who thought of Dinah on reading the thread
title.

I should have known better.

 

Yes, you should.