Anyone know the float hight for XJ900 carbs ?

Only got a downloaded manual and it show the clear tube method.

Anyone know what the float height using a ruler is ?

thanks

XJ900 pre Divy carbs
--

www.ratrodz.co.uk

XJ900 Trike GS850 Trike

[Rot 13 it]

Some people are like slinkys....
no real use but it makes you smile when they fall down stairs!

 

you use a ruler and measure from the seating of the float bowl to the
top of the float,

Its the same setting as using the clear pipe method except the pipe
method assumes the carbs are on the bike and the bike is running. You
have to remove the carbs and adjust each time, with the ruler method
you don't.

But then if you knew what you was on about you would of course know
this.
--

www.ratrodz.co.uk

XJ900 Trike GS850 Trike

[Rot 13 it]

Some people are like slinkys....
no real use but it makes you smile when they fall down stairs!

 

BORG says...

If you just left the fucking thing alone and stopped pissing about with
measurements like this then maybe you'd never have to ask. In 28 years
of owning piles of shite I've never needed to adjust float heights
except when fitting new ones, and then I do it by the manufacturers
manual.

 

well good for you, take it you've never had to buy any bits from a
breaker then, or if you have you trust everything to be spot on, nore
have you ever re built anything ?


--

www.ratrodz.co.uk

XJ900 Trike GS850 Trike

[Rot 13 it]

Some people are like slinkys....
no real use but it makes you smile when they fall down stairs!

 

The clear pipe method shows you what the fuel level actually is, rather
than setting them by ruler and not knowing precisely what's going on
once the carbs are on. Ok, it's a bit fiddlier to set up, but you don't
have to put the carb bank back on each time - just make up small jig on
your benchtop to hold them.

 

BORG wrote

I'm with the Spik on this one. Unless you are confident a previous owner
has had at them and adjusted it all badly then leave well alone. It is
a nightmare to get right if you don't get it right first time. Trust me
on this. Especially if said previous owner has done more than just
bodge the float heights.

 

BORG says...

I wouldn't buy used floats for a bike of that age, cos the chances are
they'd be as leaky as the ones I was scrapping within a short space of
tiem. New ones are cheap enough not to bother with troublesome used ones
anyway. Not all of us are *that* pikey that everything has to be sourced
from the lowest bidder. There are times when used parts are a false
economy, and when it comes to the hassle of stripping carbs from an old
UJM I'd rather rebuild them once with new bits than be constantly
pissing around taking them out and trying to get them back into hardened
inlet rubbers once I've sorted out this week's problem.

I've probably successfully rebuilt more engines and bikes than you've
ever owned.

 

Then get a bit of clear pipe and use it. Screenwasher pipe is cheap
and would be OK short-term. I'm sure you can bodge a screw-in adapter
for it.

BTW, if you are thinking of balancing the carbs, you do need to blank
off the linking passageways in the inlet manifold. They can't be
synchronised properly without this. There is a Yamaha tool that cost
about £20 when I bought one, but that was in 1992.

An alternative is to find some non-reinforced tubing that just fits in
the cross-passage, feed it through, then expand it either by
compressing the ends inwards or block one end and pump up the other so
that it seals properly and isolates the inlet tracts.

Good luck

 

yer I am aware of this, although there are several trains of thought
on it

Some ppl swear that they can be balanced better without the tool being
used.

Another tip I have seen is don't bother with the special tool and use
a 10mm soft wood dowel.

http://members.tripod.com/dave_jack/id38.htm

http://home.westman.wave.ca/~jbe/YICS.htm
--

www.ratrodz.co.uk

XJ900 Trike GS850 Trike

[Rot 13 it]

Some people are like slinkys....
no real use but it makes you smile when they fall down stairs!

 

That's bollocks. I've tried to do it with and without the tool,
monitoring progress with a 4-channel manometer, and you cannot
synchronise it accurately unless the inlet tract link is blocked.
There is just too much interaction between the linked carbs. You can
have one a long way out yet it has little effect on tickover.

If you like splinters of wood heading into your engine, go ahead.

The special tool is a few alternating sections of rubber pipe and
alloy tube threaded onto a metal rod, with a lever that compresses the
pipes lengthways to block the tract linkages.

I suggest you treat the "advice" you've recieved with a healthy dose
of scepticism. Mine too, for that matter, but I had an XJ900F for 7
years and did all my own servicing after the first 2. The person who
bought it off me was, and still is, very happy with the work I'd done
and the way I'd looked after it.

My feelings about what she has done to the frame are somewhat mixed.

 

Advice taken and tool now being sort, if I can find one now
--

www.ratrodz.co.uk

XJ900 Trike GS850 Trike

[Rot 13 it]

Some people are like slinkys....
no real use but it makes you smile when they fall down stairs!

 

very probably, then again so have I.
--

www.ratrodz.co.uk

XJ900 Trike GS850 Trike

[Rot 13 it]

Some people are like slinkys....
no real use but it makes you smile when they fall down stairs!

 

Well after phoning Yamaha UK and finding out the price of the 'tool'
is £50 I think I'll make my own.
--

www.ratrodz.co.uk

XJ900 Trike GS850 Trike

[Rot 13 it]

Some people are like slinkys....
no real use but it makes you smile when they fall down stairs!

 

That wooden dowel idea sounds the simplest.

 

Unless it's a perfect sliding fit and guaranteed splinter-free I
wouldn't go for that one.

 

I doubt it needs to be perfect, just quite close.

When's the last time you came across a splintery dowel? This is a
genuine British made dowel I'm talking about not some cheap foreign
muck.