Anybody got a clever idea?

I had to take some of my own advice when I wanted to remove the Rat
reservoir screws. Take a small, _sharp_ cold chisel to the very edge
of the screw - having checked at least twice that you are going
anti-clockwise. Tap down persistently with a medium hammer until the
chisel bites, then lower the end of the chisel while keeping the
cutting edge well into the locating curl of cheeselike metal of the
screwhead.

Then it's just a matter of patience and persistence, tapping
reasonably gently, pressing down all the while so the chisel doesn't
get too much chance to cut, but transfers the shock of the tapping
through to the screw. Took me about ten minutes a screw.

Copaslip and re-use if you're a pikey like me, or replace with decent
screws if you want to do it properly.

They don't fall _that_ far, do they? Sort of take on a heavy list,
supported by the pannier, so to speak. Just need an enthusiastic
leaning on to return to uprightness.

OTOH, this is you, Timo. So it went flat down, no doubt. Backing up
to heavy bikes, innit. Grab with hands behind your hips, get a good
hold and lean backwards, straightening your legs.

 

NigelAtWork was seen penning the following ode to ... whatever:

Will do, ta.

 

PanMan was seen penning the following ode to ... whatever:

Didn't work after a 14-hour day, that...

Nobody said it would be easy ;-)

 

Pip was seen penning the following ode to ... whatever:

In my hands that sounds like a recipe for a new cover TBH. I'm
beginning to like the "visit the Eaton workshop" alternative...

That'll be new screws and Copaslip for me, because they'll be more or
less unusable as they are.

Aye, it was carefully lowered onto its paddle[1]. It didn't even fall, I
carefully lowered it as I just couldn't hold it upright...

Well, enthusiastic didn't quite describe me at that time...

That was the plan. Time to go to the gym again. Need to do that to
prevent myself from turning into the cliched pot-bellied middle aged
biker anyway.

[1] The rubber covered crashbar thingy.

 

Not neccessarily. I have used that method with some success in the past.
I have a small, very sharp chisel for that purpose. It can also be
achieved with a sharp centre punch.

You'll also be surprised what effect a good penetrating oil has if left
overnight.

Only the smallest of smears of copaslip mind....

 

I reckon it's all in the method. I've never had a problem picking up
any bike I've dropped. Mind you, I've not dropped anything larger than
a K100.

Pretty certain I could put any (production) bike every built onto its
wheels again though.

Grip something substantial like a frame rail and the handlebar on the
side of the bike that's down. Brace your back and using your legs lift
the fucking thing, rest it on your knees. Adjust your grip and push
upright.

Swearing a lot helps. As does an audience. Telling the audience to
"**** off" generally doesn't help if they've just come out of a night
club 'cos some fucker is likely to smack you. Not that this ever
happened to me (he was pissed and I managed to move before he
connected).

 

What do you recommend? I like plus gas and don't rate WD40 much.

 

I was over zealous with the Copaslip on the handle bar clamp bolts and
although they were torqued up correctly -------- one came undone. Took
them out cleaned them up and put them back in with lock tight.

 

The main problem, other than its a waste, is it increases the loading on
the threads and increases the chances of it shearing or stripping.

Critical stuff should just be degreased and put in dry.

 

I rate plus gas but I'm still getting through a large tin of "Rusty
Nuts". Really any of the graphite enriched oils. The black fluids.

I have an aerosol of Loctite 8018, which is the daddy for rusty
fasteners. Can't remember where I got it from.

Duck oil for general degreasing, water dispersal; WD40 type jobs.

 

said....

You have to admit though, there's not many bikes larger than a K100

--
Lozzo
ZZR1100D, GPZ500S, CB250RS x3
BOTAFOT#57/70a, BOTAFOF#57, two#49, MIB#22, TCP#7, BONY#9,
ANORAK#9, DIAABTCOD#14, UKRMT5BB, IBW#013, MIRTTH#15a/16,
BotToS#8, GP#2, SBS#10, SH#3, DFV#14, KoBV#3.
Url for ukrm newbies : http://www.ukrm.net/faq/ukrmscbt.html
http://www.glfuk.com/ for MJK Leathers in the UK.

 

Oh, there's a few. Goldwing, K1200, Suzuki Cavalcade and a number of
Harleys. But... I reckon I could do any of that lot and, yes, I have
been drinking.

 

sweller was seen penning the following ode to ... whatever:

IANAC[1] but I've come across this, too. Something to do with the fact
that the metal is "more precious" than normal steel - the bigger the
differences in electrical potential between the two, the higher the
risk of corrosion.

Actually, CopaSlip isn't that great either long term in this
application due to the copper in it. There are other 'greases' with
similar properties that appearantly don't suffer from this problem -
AFAIK the BMW spline lube stuff (Optimol or somesuch) is better for
bolts you don't intend to undo for a long time.

[1] I Am Not A Chemist