amazing, almost on topic

Every day brings more knowledge.

 

IANAE but... Some alloys maybe (duplex), but stainless doesn't support
the burning needed for normal flame cutting - you need carbon in it.

You could prolly reduce it to a lump of molten metal.

 

That's about all you can do to it. You can melt through it but not
cut it.

 

good, good - this was exactly my plan.

Joe 90.

you're generally a useless ****, but in this area you manage to shine,
and I'm vaguely glad I know you.

Cheers, fella.

 

[snip]

but it clearly won't be a /garage/ as a car won't fit in it. It's a
brick shed.

 

yup. The house already has a combined PIR/ultrasound alarm system, and
I'd look at extending this into the new structure.

 

I haven't got the time nor the enthusiasm to explain the difference
between randomly melting steel and cutting it with an oxy-acetylene
set. Just accept that there is a difference.

 

snip>

I'm welling up.

 

http://www.twi.co.uk/j32k/protected/band_3/jk50.html

 

Not sure of the exact chemistry but essentially curtting relies on the
steel actually burning away as opposed to melting away. It requires
excess oxygen from the cutting torch.

AIUI the acetylene is simply used to pre-heat the steel.

With a simple welding torch you can turn off the fuel gas and cut
steel for a while with just oxygen, once you've got it hot enough to
burn.

 

Fails miserably on the "is the vehicle stored overnight in a brick-built
garage" question though, I'd have thought.

 

DR-Z 400.

 

It'll take a **** of a lot longer to melt through stainless than it
would to cut through normal steel of a similar thickness. You can't
just apply a cutting torch to a piece of 10mm thick stainless angle
and melt it.

If you can't accept that this is true then go and buy a set of bottles
and have a go for yourself.
Get rid of this fucking shit as well in future.

 

On Mon, 17 Apr 2006 21:31:38 GMT, Pip Luscher

snip>

That's about it.

Also known as lancing. Good for blowing things like safes apart
apparently.

 

I don't declare it as such, and haven't had any problems to date.

--
Dan L (Oldbloke)

My bike 1996 Kawasaki ZR1100 Zephyr
Space in shed where NSR125 used to be
Spare Bike 1990 Suzuki TS50X (Patio Ornament)
BOTAFOT #140 (KotL 2005/6), X-FOT#000, DIAABTCOD #26, BOMB#18 (slow), OMF#11

 

I wasn't really thinking about putting electric in at all, but the
various replies in this thread have made me possibly reconsider.

heh.

 

you don't live in London - having the bikes garaged makes a pretty
significant difference to the insurance quote.

 

well, yes, but less applicable to Z1000.

 

Good point, although it does also have a bearing out here in rural
Oxfordshire too. What usually happens is that when the garaging question
comes up I have to explain the set up, which normally results as it being
classed as "kept in a locked outbuilding". My current policy excludes theft
from my property unless it is locked away in the shed, so when it's parked
out front [1], technically it's not insured.

[1] Normally when I've just got it out pre-bimble, or arrived home
post-bimble.

--
Dan L (Oldbloke)

My bike 1996 Kawasaki ZR1100 Zephyr
Space in shed where NSR125 used to be
Spare Bike 1990 Suzuki TS50X (Patio Ornament)
BOTAFOT #140 (KotL 2005/6), X-FOT#000, DIAABTCOD #26, BOMB#18 (slow), OMF#11

 

Unfortunately, nowadays you'll need a Part P electrician to do this for you.<snip>


--
Dan L (Oldbloke)

My bike 1996 Kawasaki ZR1100 Zephyr
Space in shed where NSR125 used to be
Spare Bike 1990 Suzuki TS50X (Patio Ornament)
BOTAFOT #140 (KotL 2005/6), X-FOT#000, DIAABTCOD #26, BOMB#18 (slow), OMF#11