Advice on buying secondhand gsxr 750

Hiya all,

I'm feeling quite chatty today so I thought I'd ask for what to look for
when buying a gsxr750. It will be around the mid 1990's so I was wondering
if they have a particular problem area that i should lookout for.
I have also noticed a lot of the older bikes say they have a new chain and
sprocket.....are these generally expensive to replace?
Please be gentle with me (or I won't share my beer)

 

gsxr 750 = flogged

are yu hoping to get your knee down with this hoon bike or is it more of
a fashion accessory?

any old bike needs a trusted bike mechanic to look @ it.

a chain is that greasy thing that goes from the back wheel to the engine
on the left side.

JD

 

A chain and sprockets could be anywhere from about $300 to about $600.

Older sports bikes aren't inherantly less reiable than older
sports/tourers but that style of bike tends to be bought by hoons, who
then proceed to thrash them.

This is less of a problem with 1000's and 1100's than it is with 600's
and 750's as most 'normal' humans can't hold max revs and max throttle
for very long on the litre bikes

Having said all of that a good maintenance history and a clean well
looked after bike is more imortant than the model... [1]


G-S

[1] VFR800's excepted... which as worth much less without the optional
letterbox and chain

 

on some bikes

 

stick to either a 1985-1990/91 model , after that they got wet, fat and slow
(bit like clem) 96 onwards got lighter and faster (unlike clem who remailed
fat, wet and slow) , 98 they got ifi and from 200 onwards they got lighter
and faster still ( unlike clem who.......)

1985 to 1990/91 hard to find a decent one that isnt shagged out (like clem)
or been been streetfightered (as clem likes to think of himself).

1992 to 95 - water cooled models, quite grunty (like clem but in a different
sorta way) and fast but somewhat heavy (like clem..did i mention wet n
slow)

1996 first of the srad models and much better........

wish you luck

corks

ps bite me clem

 

Well I don't mind scraping my toes a bit and they do have em in pretty
colours so....both actually

Now that i did know

 

It's easy to determine when chains and sprockets have reached the end of
their life, not so easy to detect whether they *really* are new (or
new-ish) or not. The claim is often made to justify an apparently
inflated price.

Also, replacing a chain and sprockets is something you can do with only
a modest amount of mechnical skill (as compared to, I dunno, changing
fork seals or something). Some genuine sellers do it themselves and then
inflate the sale price by the shop cost to do the same job.

And you did pay attention to the people who told you only hoons wanted
these bikes in the first place, didn't you? People who have around
$5,000 to spend on a used bike probably don't want to have to spend half
that again (or more) stripping and rebuilding the motor. [1]

--
Cheers

Andrew

[1] I misread your handle as " I Lube My Boike ", which might have made
rebuilding the motor a 'project'.

 

Well thats plenty of info. Thanks
Now to find a mechanic......

 

Chains-and-sprockets are the evil work of Satan and proof of mankind's
stupidity!

 

The perimeter-framed models (1995 and earlier) are something of a waste
of time unless you're a Suzuki fetishist working on a GSX-R collection
and you're trying to collect the set.

'96-onwards models remain some of the most evocative sportsbikes ever
built. Suspension will be wobbly on most you'll come across, but the
forks can be rebuilt and rear shocks from later GSX-R's are a direct swap.

The frame beam walls are thin and without inner bracing. They dent
easily in a stack.

Some of the construction on them isn't too clever. Headlights are fixed
to the top fairing by self-tapping screws which bite straight into
plastic, and the main wiring loom runs outside the left fairing beam
under the fairing. Bike goes for a slide on the left side, wiring gets
shredded.

The motors are up to taking a fair bit of abuse, so provided the bike
looks like it's been taken care of, it should be ok.

If something on them is prone to failure, it seems to be the inlet cam
at the rightmost journal. When that happens, throw the motor away and
fit one out of a GSX-R1000K3/4.

 

awlright . buy matching leathers, very tight, maybe go a size too small?

definitely without the sagging bum!

don't buy an old bike, the motor industry feasts on gullible females.

how did i know that?

 

Ah, but it's SO good to put a new set on and have your rattly,
lurching, squeaking motorbike magically transformed into a
smooth-running machine again!


BTH
(Probably a bit like stopping hitting yourself with a hammer.)

 

17" wheels came out in 88, and USD forks in about 1990. The 88/89 models
had a different engine to the rest, a 748cc short stroke engine that
revved to 13,000rpm. It was a more peaky engine, but lacked low end
torque. Engine parts for these ones are hard to get. Also dodgy
electrics, and a 'shocking' rear shock - but an rf900 one makes a good
replacement.
They have a habit of breaking gears - normally 3rd, but mine broke
second just to be different. It did have 90k on the clock at that point
though.

Josh

 

hee hee hee! and I reckon (probably a newbie thing) there's something kind
of endearing about a chain, anyway.... I had my first bonding moments with
my bike while perched on a crate, kero-soaked brush in hand, squinting and
poking at the accumulated muck in disgust. For hours. Two days running, just
to make sure all the crap really WAS off...

Maybe when I've cleaned the chain a few more times I'll be "over it"...

I'm sure there's probably some wisdom about chain vs shaft vs belt - can
anybody point me in the direction of something that might tell me the
relative merits of each, or is it just a personal preference thing?

ta
betty

 

Wow, sounds just like those cheap Chinese bikes!

 

Shaft = logical, sensible means of transferring engine power to drive
wheel.
Belt = A very strong alcoholic drink designed to stun your body. (Often
administered to people who are delusionally claiming there are
disadvantages to shafts).
Chain = 22 yards (20.13 Metres). The average safe travelling-distance
between cleanings and adjustments for not shaft-drive motorcycles.Hope that helps.
Clem

 

Heheh, I'll just wander off and get _another_ belt then.

 

Belt, what you get when you dont do what you are told

20.13m return distance to the fridge , hmm spooky

 

"Knobdoodle" wrote

Chain = 100 links.

Theo

 

Have one for me.

Theo