A quiet tale of classic bike ownership...

Discussion in 'UK Motorcycles' started by William Grainger, Jul 22, 2004.

  1. Or, a tale of (some) bodges.

    Job 1:

    Speedo cable broke; ie stopped getting speeds registered, rather than
    it flapping in the breeze. Arse. Went to local dealer, get new one.
    Fine. Unbolt speedo, get cable out at that end. Fine.

    Pull cable out of driven end. Isn't that meant to have some
    sort of teeth or slot in it? Look in 'ole; the teeth are still
    in there. Bugger. Much thinking, and proding later, still nothing
    coming out.

    Inspiration hits! Go for a ride! So I go for a ride, and
    the annoying bit of metal (at some point) falls out. Just what I wanted.
    Refit is the reverse of disassembly, and I again know how fast I
    isn't going.


    Job 2:

    In a fit of ebay-inspired preventative maintance, I buy some switchgear,
    for a GPz750turbo, to replace the slightly cracked rhs switchgear
    on the bike. Turns up, is in good nick, everyone's happy.

    Go to bike. Remove tank to get at connectors. Connectors fit, and
    there aren't any spare; always a good sign. Connect. Does the bike
    start?

    ....

    Yes. Do the lights work?

    ....

    Yes. Right. Lets take the old one off the handlebars and fit the
    new one. Look carefully at underside... Hang on, they don't look
    the same... The one on the turbo has two 'oles for the throttle cable,
    in a push-me-pull-me kind of way. The one what I have just purchased,
    has one 'ole for a throttle cable...

    Ah well, put back to original. I shall be carefully swapping over
    the cracked bit of plastic anyway, but didn't have the required
    tools to hand at home.

    Paging Champ: Which is the not quite right one?
     
    William Grainger, Jul 22, 2004
    #1
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  2. William Grainger

    Champ Guest

    Hmmm. Not sure without looking at mine, but I think that the turbo
    has a closing cable as well as an opening one. I suspect the switch
    gear you have is for an ordinary GPz750, which probably only had an
    opening cable for the CV carbs

    [tho, to be honest, I can't see why the turbo FI system needs anything
    more than a spring closing the butterflies, which are almost exactly
    like the butterflies on CV carbs. It's usually just slide carbs that
    have a closing cable, as the slides have been known to jam when fully
    open].
     
    Champ, Jul 22, 2004
    #2
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  3. Fair enough.
    I did think of hacking together a spring, but decided against it.
    Mainly to do with the lack of springs I have in my toolbox.
     
    William Grainger, Jul 22, 2004
    #3
  4. William Grainger

    mups Guest

    William Grainger says...
    Urm. maybe I'm being a bit thick ere but if the Turbo has 2 throttle
    cables then the one with 2 holes is the right one and if it only has
    one...
     
    mups, Jul 22, 2004
    #4
  5. A second cable could have been added by A Bodger in the past;
    when Champ bought the bike originally it had non-standard
    bars, rear indicators, rear lights and an hacked rear mudguard.
    Non-standard switchgear may have also been added.
     
    William Grainger, Jul 22, 2004
    #5
  6. bad form, yadda yadda;

    Job 3:

    Some advice required here...

    The tank of the turbo attaches at three points; two rubber
    mounting things each side of the frame at the front, and
    a rubber mounting thing at the back, which goes into a bracket.
    The bracket has two holes in it, which go over two studs.
    The two studs are threaded, and there is, naturally, a nut
    on each, to hold it down.

    Whilst removing the tank last night, I noticed that one
    stud has almost no thread left on it. Now, the studs are
    basically part of the frame, but offset slightly

    Bad ascii art: S for stud; from side...

    S
    S
    +-----+
    | |
    ---+-----+---- <--- frame

    The studs are not particularly thick; maybe M6.

    Obviously this arrangement of threadless stud is not ideal.
    The question is; what's the best thing to do? Options seem
    to be:

    1) use a die on the stud for an M5 or M4 nut.
    2) hacksaw off stud, drill out. Use a bolt with a nut in the
    raised area.
    3) get a friendly/expensive welder to weld a bigger piece of
    metal on, and use a die on that to produce the correct
    size thread.

    I'm tempted by 1 for preference, but two for security...

    Thoughts?
     
    William Grainger, Jul 22, 2004
    #6
  7. William Grainger

    Champ Guest

    4) drill a small hole through the end of the stud, and push an R clip
    through it
     
    Champ, Jul 22, 2004
    #7
  8. What's an R-clip?
     
    William Grainger, Jul 22, 2004
    #8
  9. William Grainger

    darsy Guest

    darsy, Jul 22, 2004
    #9
  10. William Grainger

    Champ Guest

    See Darsy's post.

    Standard mechanism for quick detachment systems.
     
    Champ, Jul 22, 2004
    #10
  11. Ah ha!

    Makes more sense; I was thinking the small hole went along the
    centre of the stud, which confused me...

    Good suggestion. I'll do that.
     
    William Grainger, Jul 22, 2004
    #11
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