A new weave/wobble....

I'm interested now. Run-flat tyres for cars, yes, for bikes,
Bridgestone's website doesn't seem to mention them. Nor did the link
you posted. So where are they?

 

That's why I gave up on my last VFR - it cost more for the chain n
sprox, 2 tyres, 3 discs n pads, new fork leg, new fork seals and wheel
bearings it needed than the thing was worth so I sold it to a mate for
"spares or repairs".

Bought myself an Aprilia to replace it. Within 1k miles it had needed a
new brake disc, new fork seal & a pair of silencers. Sigh.

 

Gentle opening of the throttle as soon as the bike is turned extends the
rear suspension. It also helps alleviate any instability effects from the
rear wheel attempting to slow down. In short, and none too accurately, it
give the back end something to do. It can help mask worn dampers, but will
not mask worn S/A bearings or wheel bearings. Helps to isolate a few
things, and is a good thing generally.

Dunno about your bike in particular, but crushed bearing spacers can be a
pain in the arse as the effect doesn't seem at first linked to the cause.
BTDTGTTS.

The chain is at its tightest when there is a straight line between the
output shaft centre, the S/A bearing centre and the rear axle centre. Most
chain manufacturers recommend approx 1 inch at this point. On a twin shock,
it is easy to do using the mainstand and a luggage strap. Unbolt the
shocks, luggage strap over the seat and wind until all lines up. Set 1 inch
freeplay, bolt back together and measure the freeplay with the arm in
its 'running' position. Voila. You now know how much the chain should lift
when it is set correctly.

A too tight chain will affect the suspension as the cornering loads increase
and that arm comes in line. Again, a little throttle to extend the rear
will allow the suspension to work, and as its working against the engine
now, some semblance of stability is restored.

On an older bike, you may find that lots of these little niggles mount up to
a general feeling of unease as things wear. Most are cheap to check, some
are cheap to sort. A sunny days worth of furtling and going over the bike
is a pleasant enough way to waste a day.

HTH

 

Its a bit of a chore - but so is hellicoiling all the stripped threads on
the engine casing bolt holes.

 

I've put a countersunk set-screw through holed stroker pistons - a couple of
times, the trick is to split the threaded end with a chisel so the nut
doesn't vibrate loose.

The first was a Yam 50 that I carried on thrashing till the big end let go,
the second was a CZ250 that I'd been using for courier riding, it didn't
handle too well after I welded an XS250 front end on so I sold it to a gang
of kids for £5 to ride over the fields.

 

Forgot about that.......hahahaha....ouch; really NOT funny, but somewhat
entertaining none the less !!

 

Liar, it wont weave at all. BTDT anyway you don't do ANY preventative
maintinence at all so what would YOU a known pervert and racist know
about this if it wasn't on wiki?

Well chickenhawk?

 

Gee more than you that's for sure. You don't even change brake
fluid...hell I've built shocks and you have done what exactly?

I'd rather shit on you and feed it to your racist friends.

 

ROTFLMAO you are one stupid ignornat uneducated chickenhawk your piece
of underage chasing filth.

I'd rather feed your sorry as to the pigeons at St. Peter's basillica.
The pope would likely make me a cardinal for such a good and christian
deed...

 

But it does happen...anyway what would a guy FIRED for incompetance
from Grumman know?

 

There's no rust aft of the engine.

 

Hello. Found them yet?