A little Morini fettle, part the first

Discussion in 'Classic Motorbikes' started by Timo Geusch, Jul 19, 2009.

  1. Timo Geusch

    Timo Geusch Guest

    I finally got around to working on the Morini. First order of the day
    was to remove the ugly carbon fibre look mini-indicators and put the OEM
    tail light back on. That went reasonably well apart from the fact that
    matey of course had to go and fucking drill the mudguards and the
    headlight shell (for an earth point, FFS), didn't he? I also put the
    original indicators back on but they're not working (yet), presumably
    for the same reason the others weren't working either. Oh, and I moved
    the headlight up while I was at it, whoever put that on put it so low
    that the bottom of the headlight shell touched the brake fluid
    distributor. Doh.

    Being on a roll at this point, I took off the tank to figure out why it
    was running a bit shit at idle. According to the PO's mate, the bike had
    been running fine until a recognised expert had had a go at it. Oh
    joy...

    I had already noticed back at chateau TOG that the rubber elbows didn't
    seem to sit right in the airbox. And Morinis are *very* sensitive to
    changes in the inlet tract. After the usual swearing, the airbox came
    off, the filters were inspected (look reasonably new) and the elbows
    fitted properly. Reverse was the disassembly or somesuch, tank back on
    and wahay, starts first kick without choke. And it even idles. But as it
    warms up, what do I hear? *Fart* putputputput *fart* putputputput *fart*
    putputput etc...

    Bah.

    That said, the bike was running *much* better. More poking around showed
    that it was only the rear cylinder that was misfiring, so off came the
    float bowl. Of course, there was shit in the carb, a little blast with
    the carb cleaner sorted that out. Jets are the correct size according to
    the Morini manual, so it all went back together. At this point I noticed
    that the idle mixture screw was screwed awfully far in. I turned it out
    the customary 1 1/2 turns, kicked and ... hmm. Not much better, is it?

    Twiddle the 'air' screw for the back carb. Nothing. Twiddle the one for
    the front - aha - something's happening. Looks like someone fucked up
    the idle balance and the rear isn't idling right yet. At least the bike
    is now running OK as soon as you're off idle, which is a big
    improvement. At this point I ran out of playtime so I had to put
    everything back on and push it back into the garage...

    I also noticed that the paint 'boils' are all over the tank and as I
    couldn't resist peeling one back, there seems to be rust underneath
    them. Arse. So I guess that'll be a proper, bare metal - hopefully metal
    and not colander - paint job them. I hope it's only surface rust but I
    guess I'll politely ask Beav if he can also seal the inside of the
    tank. Don't really fancy getting another tank...
     
    Timo Geusch, Jul 19, 2009
    #1
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  2. Timo Geusch

    crn Guest

    Sounds like a blocked idle jet.
    Hardly surprising if you already had shit in the float bowl.
     
    crn, Jul 19, 2009
    #2
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  3. And he'll say: "Oh, ****, not you as well, you ****..."

    Because I've just asked him to do the same to the TS250's tank.

    Got all the bodywork and plastics off the TS without any hassle. It all
    looks pretty good underneath: the wiring seems as it should be. There's
    some horrible dry cell lash-up sitting in the battery box, but I'll be
    sorting that anyway.

    There's a lot of dried mud plastered everywhere, but as it's being
    stripped right down, who cares?

    Fundamentally, it's complete, original, unmessed-with and just looks a
    bit tired, but it's straight and there is absolutely no damage anywhere.
    The tank is undinged and all the plastics are uncracked.
     
    The Older Gentleman, Jul 19, 2009
    #3
  4. Timo Geusch

    Timo Geusch Guest

    Timo Geusch, Jul 19, 2009
    #4
  5. Timo Geusch

    Timo Geusch Guest

    Heh. I'll probably ask him anyway :).
    That's rare for a mudplugger.

    I'll try to pick up the bits next weekend if that suits you and I'll
    probably get them up to Beav the following one together with my Morini
    bits.
     
    Timo Geusch, Jul 19, 2009
    #5
  6. I'm on my hols. I'm back Monday week, but I'll find a way of getting
    them to you during the week. Might take them in the car down to TW and
    then just divert to Ashford after work.
     
    The Older Gentleman, Jul 19, 2009
    #6
  7. The Older Gentleman, Jul 19, 2009
    #7
  8. Timo Geusch

    Timo Geusch Guest

    Well, in case you're planning to go to Rye one Wednesday, we can do a
    pint & tank meet.
     
    Timo Geusch, Jul 19, 2009
    #8
  9. Timo Geusch

    Timo Geusch Guest

    Nah, on my list of things to do. I worked out what the knack is as you
    can start it without using the full travel of the kickstart lever and
    it'll still fire. But putting an original kickstart on is definitely on
    the agenda.
     
    Timo Geusch, Jul 19, 2009
    #9
  10. Timo Geusch

    Guest Guest

    Has to be said: it's the little things that make so much difference.

    It's beginning to look really nice.
     
    Guest, Jul 19, 2009
    #10
  11. Timo Geusch

    AW Guest

    Timo Geusch wrote

    Niiiice.
     
    AW, Jul 19, 2009
    #11
  12. Timo Geusch

    AW Guest


    Hmm. Not sure what kick start mine has fitted, but it's not orginal.
    It has a spacer to get it over the rear sets, but the spacer is
    getting worn and though there is a spare spacer in the bag of bits
    that came with the bike, now I look at it, it's not been finished
    off...

    So, I could be interested in yours, if you replace it. Since I could
    get the standard NLM spacer to fit that.
     
    AW, Jul 19, 2009
    #12
  13. Timo Geusch

    mark Guest

    In message
    Very lovely :)
     
    mark, Jul 20, 2009
    #13
  14. Timo Geusch

    Timo Geusch Guest

    I might do that, depending on the cost of the spacer (which I'd need -
    the kick start on the bike doesn't need a spacer) and the kickstart
    rubber.
     
    Timo Geusch, Jul 20, 2009
    #14
  15. Timo Geusch

    AW Guest

    "Timo Geusch"  wrote:
    I think the NLM spacer is about £30. But I could be wrong.
     
    AW, Jul 20, 2009
    #15
  16. Timo Geusch

    Dan L Guest

    Aren't the rear shocks on upside down?

    --
    Dan L

    Too much time to think, too little to do.


    http://thebikeshed.spaces.live.com/

    1992 kawasaki ZXR400 (The one wiv the hoover tubes) Coming soon to a
    patio near me.
    2003 Ducati 900SS FF (Woo hoo)
    2002 Triumph Sprint RS 955i (BTDT)
    1996 Kawasaki ZR1100 Zephyr (Gone, but not forgotten)

    BOTAFOT #140 (KotL 2005/6/7/8)
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    Dan L, Jul 20, 2009
    #16
  17. Timo Geusch

    Timo Geusch Guest

    I'm pretty sure they aren't - standard Marzocchis and they have the
    reservoir at the bottom. With a knob on the top of it if they're
    adjustable but these aren't.
     
    Timo Geusch, Jul 20, 2009
    #17
  18. Timo Geusch

    Krusty Guest

    That's a bit weird - the damper body & reservoir almost always go at
    the top, to reduce unsprung weight if for no other reason.
     
    Krusty, Jul 20, 2009
    #18
  19. Timo Geusch

    Bob Scott Guest

    Seemed to be standard for the time - Marzocchi did it with the Strada,
    the Symbol & the mega fancy racing shocks on the Laverda V6.

    Come to think of it I'm sure I've seen Corte + Cosso shock of a similar
    style
     
    Bob Scott, Jul 20, 2009
    #19
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