93 CBR600 wiring?

I'm going to be getting my endorsement test next week, and I'm pretty sure I
need working front turn signals. I have the lights themselves and I can
install them on the bodywork, but I need to figure out where to connect the
wires. Since the bike doesn't currently have turn signals of any kind, I
need to figure out where to connect the wires on the bike. Do they come out
the fusebox at the head of the bike?

 

Look for an unused wire with a female bullet connector on either side
of the motorbike near where the original equipment turn signals would
have bolted on. Only an idiot would have cut the turn signal wires off
where they come out of the wiring harness.
You'll probably find the turn signal wires tied back or taped to the
harness.

If you have a voltmeter, set it on the 15 volt scale and check for
steady voltage at the female bullet connector you suspect of having
been a turn signal wire when you put the turn signal switch in the
right turn and left turn positions.

You won't see the 15 volts going on and off with no bulb in the
circuit, it takes a connected bulb to make the flasher work.

 

15V, huh? Interesting voltage to expect with a 12V system... Well, I'm
assuming it's 12 and not 6.

Thanks for the tips... will go try it out now.

 

Actually, it's 12V according to the schematic and the bulb/housing bolt
directly onto the fairing, hence the lack of any mounting points... I have
to find the miniplug at the turn signal relay to get my answer... it's very
difficult with the fairing on and I reaaaally don't want to take it off.

 

Gosh, Phil, I don't know anything at all. I'm just one of the guys who
sent Apollo space capsules to the Moon and maintained B-52 bombers to
defend the country. So I wouldn't know a damned thing, would I? ;-)

Anytime you're checking for voltage in a circuit, you always set your
voltmeter to a scale that's higher than what you expect to read. If
you're working in a circuit that might have AC voltage, you start with
your meter set on the highest AC voltage range and then work down to
the lower range you're looking for and you do the same with the DC
ranges if you expect to find higher voltages than just the battery
voltage.

And, yes, your Honda wiring can read 15 volts or slightly higher when
the engine is running.

 

Ok, now I'm confused. Do you have the turn-signal housings already on
the bike, but need to install the lamps? If you need to install the
housings, how can you possibly do so without removing the fairing? If
the original owner didn't simply hack everything off flush with the
fairing, you will likely find the connectors and wires on the inside of
the fairing, ready to re-connect to the pigtail/housing on the fairing.

ISTR that you've got race/aftermarket fairings on your bike, so any
assumptions about being able to dis/connect the signal wiring without
removing the fairings are dangerous. Without knowing more, it's really
hard to say more. HTH

--
Later,
John



'indiana' is a 'nolnn' and 'hoosier' is a 'solkk'. Indiana doesn't solkk.

 

The F2 fairing has the turn signal housing integrated directly into it:

http://www.bikepics.com/pics/pics/honda-cbr600-91-bikepics-433994.jpg (not
my bike)

So there isn't any support stalk needed. I assume now that the wire from
the light to the electrical system just goes around into a specific place,
but I can't find that specific place.

I actually just found what I think are the old turn signals (dual filament)
but I'm not sure which colors are ground. There's a green wire, an orange
wire, and an orange wire with a stripe. The new turn signals I'm putting on
(flush mount b/c of the race fairings) have a black wire, a black/stripe
wire, and red wire. Black/stripe goes to the outer housing of the bulb, and
red and black go to the two leads at the base of the socket. How can I be
sure which colors to match up if I'm splicing the new lights into the old
harness?

I still don't know where to connect the harness, but I'm going to try again
in the morning when there's more light.

 

The lower wattage filament would be lit any time the ignition switch is
on, so check for 12 volts on each of the three wires. The one that has
voltage is for running lights.

The higher wattage filament would only be lit when the turn signal
switch is on and the ignition switch is on at the same time, so look
for voltage to appear on one of the remaining two wires.

The third wire will be the ground wire. So you can hook up the ground
wire to the wire that comes from the turn signal's housing. Then hook
up the other two wires experimentally to see which lights the low
wattage filament with just the ignition key on.

The remaining wire would have to be the high wattage filament.

 

Excellent... I understand completely now. All I have to do is find where to
plug the stupid quick-connects on the bike now! Thanks.

 

If you have the Honda service manual, there's very likely to be a series
of pictures in the "general information" chapter that illustrate cable
and wiring harness routing. In the manual for my '94 VFR, these images
sit near the end of chapter 1 ("General Information"). If you don't have
Honda's service manual yet, consider this another plug for it. It's
_really_ handy, and given the popularity of the cbr600, I'd think that
you would be able to find a used one without too much difficulty. HTH

--
Later,
John



'indiana' is a 'nolnn' and 'hoosier' is a 'solkk'. Indiana doesn't solkk.

 

I have it on the computer, and I've looked at the schematic, but I can't
find where they go physically on the bike:

http://plaza.ufl.edu/phillee/cbr/cbr600f2 wiring diagram.jpg

And if you'd like to see the bike itself:

http://plaza.ufl.edu/phillee/cbr/cbr.jpg

You can see exactly why getting under the gas tank is very difficult.

 

must be damn hot down there- them mirror stalks look melted!

 

Well, you can see the color coding on the wires and there's a legend on
the wiring diagram. Green is probably the color for the ground wire,
and, like I said before, it's only a matter of hooking the wire that
has 12 volts on it when the ignition switch is on to the wire that goes
to the low wattage filament to get running lights and hook the wire
that has 12 volts on it when the ignition switch is on *and* the turn
signal switch is moved to the side you're working on to get the higher
wattage turn signal filament to work.

I can see from looking at the turn signal diagram on www.partsfish.com
that the front turn signals had square plastic connectors, instead of
bullet connectors. The rear turn signals did have bullet connectors. So
you want to look for unused female bullet connects under the tail piece
and unused 3-pin square plastic plugs tucked away somewhere up front,
unless the previous owner cut them off.

If the connectors on the turn signals you are going to install don't
have square plugs, but have male bullet connectors instead, and you can
find the square plastic connectors on the wiring harness, you'll
probably see that they have female spade terminals. It's possible to
remove female spade terminals from a plastic connector by carelly
depressing a retaining tang that's built into the side of each spade
and then pull the space out of the plastic body.

Then you can cut the spade terminals off and solder some female bullet
connectors onto the wires, if that's what you're going to use. Bullet
connectors are supposed to be crimped onto the stripped ends of wires,
but, in practice, crimping makes a bad connection. Soldering works a
lot better. You can insulate female bullet connectors with clear
plastic tubing.

 

Ok, I was not referring to the wiring diagram in my last post. The
drawings that I was talking about actually show the physical layout of
the cables, wires, and hoses. There's 6 or 7 different images of various
aspects of the bike (all line-drawings, not photographs), each
highlighting a slightly different angle, location, or type of item
(cable, wire, hose) being routed. As I wrote above, in my manual they're
in chapter 1.

You shouldn't need to get under the gas tank at all, I'd think. While I
don't see your indicator housings, or the holes in the fairing that they
should fit into, I'd think that you should be able to reach the relevant
wiring bits from either:
1) the side cooling vents,
2) through the top (turning the bars to the opposite lock)
3) from the front
in any of these cases, you wouldn't need to remove the fairing to get at
the connectors. From what I can see in the photo, there's nothing about
your fairings that makes me think you'd have to remove them to
(dis)connect the indicators. fwiw, on my '94 VFR with stock fairings I
get at the indicator connectors from above, turning the steering to the
opposite lock.

The bike looks pretty nice, btw.

--
Later,
John



'indiana' is a 'nolnn' and 'hoosier' is a 'solkk'. Indiana doesn't solkk.

 

That's been fixed since the picture was taken, hehe.