81 Suzuki GS450 - various issues/questions

It's finally warm enough to start riding so I'm finally getting around
to various issues with my GS450. Probably should have worked on it
over the winter, but without a heated garage...but I digress. Any
ideas on the following would be helpful:

1) When idling in neutral on the center stand, the rear wheel spins.
Pulling the clutch lever in all the way does not stop it. When I shift
it into first, the rear wheel spins faster. Obviously the clutch cable
needs adjusting. I've adjusted it as far as I can, but the above still
happens.

2) It is extremely difficult to pull the clutch lever in. Any ideas on
how to make it easier to engage?

3) Chain is stretched to the point the tensioner is fully extended.
Looks like I need to replace it. I've got the Clymer book, but it is
extremely vague on the chain replacing process. It mentions the chain
does NOT have a masterlink, so how do I get it off?

4) Does anyone know what size I need for a aftermarket replacement or
who to get it from online?

With gas prices already on the rise I need to get it up and running
ASAP...especially since my office is relocating, more than doubling my
commute.

Thanks,
EWB

 

You don't need even that - a hacksaw does just fine.

 

Probably right but it's possible that your mis-placed zeal for adjusting out
the drag has resulted in the cable being too tight so that it is just
binding. The cable probably DOES need adjusting now, back to the way it is
supposed to be.

A worn out chain should never be replaced without changing out both
sprockets too.

 

Nonsense. Perfectly OK, on cheap chains with decent sprockets. The chain
wears first.

Ideally, yes, in a perfect world, you'd change both, but I've only done
it on big, fast expensive bikes.

On small bikes (and many singles), the chain sometimes nadgers in a few
thousand miles, and the sprockets are still fine. On my late unlamented
CB750, with a chain made from knicker elastic, and about the same size,
5000 miles per chain was your lot. The sprockets were still perfect.

There's also the matter of the gearbox sprocket wearing roughly three
times as fast as the rear. I tend to replace gearbox sprockets twice as
often as rears.

 

Nonsense yourself. It depends upon the situation. Maybe my use of "never"
was a bad choice.
What we have here is a 25 year old bike AND someone who has to come here to
ask advice.
Maybe I should have said inspect the sprockets
BUT
Over it's 25 year life it is likely that at least one owner thought the
thing to do was keep adjusting the chain until he ran out of adjustment
before replacing the chain (only). Given that the present owner is
(apparently) not very knowledgeable about chain maintenance, I doubt that he
would know worn sprockets if he say them. Badly worn sprockets will
contribute to premature chain wear.
SO
In this particular case, let me re-phrase:
If the OP changes his own chain, he probably should change out the sprockets
as well.
Better? ;-)

 

Well, yes, that was exactly the point I was making.

Much

 

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I'd like to add a "buying tip" to Mark's excellent advise.

When looking up chains and sprockets in a chart on a company's web
site, cross reference your application on the applications list with
other brands of sprockets and chains. I have found mistakes many
times over the last 10 years in the M/C aftermarket parts distributors
catalogs. It only took a few times of disappointing the customers
(them having to wait while I corrected the mistaken order) before I
started cross checking the listed applications before making the
order.
The most accurate applications lists that I have found were from
Sprocket Specialists.

Street bikes often use the riveted master link, as a catastrophic
accident can result in a chain coming apart at speed (from losing an
improperly installed master link locking clip).

A chain riveting tool will probably cost you less than having a shop
install the chain for you.
Such as:
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/chain_press_tool_kit/
or
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/chain_breaker_and_riveting_tool/

They also sell this combination:
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/jumbo_chain_tool/
combined with this:
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/quad_stake_rivet_tool_kit/

Good Riding and Wrenching to You!


Wudsracer/Jim Cook
Smackover Racing
'06 Gas Gas DE300
'82 Husqvarna XC250
Team LAGNAF

 

OP here. Thanks for all the good advice so far. I believe I have
discovered why I'm have clutch/clutch cable problems. The push rod for
the clutch is bent. While I'll be the first to admit I'm rather new at
wrenching on my bike, I don't believe it's supposed to be bent. I
assume this is why squeezing the clutch lever is so difficult and why
the clutch doesn't seem to engage as much as it should. Please correct
me if I'm wrong. Not sure how easy it's going to be to find a
replacement pushrod especially since the local Suzuki dealer has gone
out of business. There is a rather good all makes parts/repair place
that can probably order it for me. The instructions on removing the
clutch looks rather difficult so I may have to break down and have it
switched for me.

Haven't done anything with the chain as of yet. Ironically I have the
Harbor Freight grinder...but I only paid $5 for it not $10. LOL.

The several online retailers all seem to agree that the chain I need
is a 530x104. The existing sprockets seem to be ok. The Clymer book
shows a diagram of what to look for as far as wear on the sprockets
and mine seem fine. The bike may be 26 years old, but it's only got
13,400 miles on it, 4000 of which I put on it over the last 4 or 5
years.

I've found a HUGH range of prices for the chains from as low as $16
for a "Pro-Sport Chain 530x104" or $17 for a "BikeMaster 530x104 KMC
Chain" It then jumps to $62 or an "EK DS O-Ring Chain 530x104" or $68
for a "BikeMaster 530x104 BMSTR Chain." Any reason not to go with one
of the cheep chains?

Thanks again,
EWB

 

It's a mild steel rod. Any engineering shop ought to be able to cut you
off a length of something that will do the job.

 

Quality of materials and service life of the cheap chain might be as
low as 3K to 4K miles. Or, the really cheap chain might break and
wrap around your sprockets and cause you to crash or it might punch a
hole in your crankcase.

I got tired of well known name brand replacement o-ring chains wearing
out quickly and bought a non-o ring "heavy duty" chain, thinking I
would just lubricate it religiously.

But, it was worn out after only 4K miles. At least I could get 8K
miles out of a round o-ring replacement chain/

The premium flat o-ring chains that are installed on new motorcycles
will last over 20K miles, but you might have to pay $200 for one from
a dealer. I was lucky to find an original equipment chain on sale from
an online catalog for only $120...

 

Not for a GS450, you won't. Well, unless you like throwing away money.
My dealer sells quality O-ring chains (Tsubaki etc) on a long roll: cut
off however many links you need.

 

OP here again for a follow-up.

I ended up getting a "Heavy Duty" Chain from Parts Unlimited. I'm sure
it's not as good or a long lasting as some of the others that where
recommended, but I'm hoping to upgrade rides in a couple years anyway.
If it only lasts 4000 miles, so be it. I've only put 4000 miles on the
bike since I bought it back in '01.

The pushrod was quite obviously bend from the chain hitting it....a
directy result of my neglecting basic chain maintanance...I mistake I
won't be repeating. The new two peice design of the pushrod means in
the unlikely event the chain hits it and bends it again, I don't have
to take the clutch all apart to get at it, the bend part will slide
out from the area shared with the sprocket. In any case, the clutch
lever is MUCH easier to squeeze.

Thanks again for all the advice.

EWB