'69 Honda 350 engine rebuild problems

Discussion in 'Motorbike Technical Discussion' started by Rich, May 20, 2005.

  1. Rich

    Rich Guest

    I got this bike a few years ago at a garage sale. Only about 500 miles on
    it, but it had sat in a garage for over 30 years with a cross-threaded spark
    plug socket open to the air, and missing a few parts.

    I gobbed up a tap with grease and cleaned the plug threads, tuned it,
    rebuilt the carbs, and it ran for a while (75 miles).

    Oil started leaking from somewhere behind the cylinder fins, and I decided
    to do a top-end rebuild.

    The cylinder walls look pretty good, but as long as I had it apart, I wanted
    to check the piston rings and skirts.

    Well, the cylinders will NOT separate from the crankcase. I've put upward
    pressure on the cylinders (kind of put them in traction from the basement
    ceiling) and tapped with a plastic mallet. I've gently heated the bottoms
    of the cylinders and tapped again - nothing.

    I'm no mechanic, and thought someone might have a trick to obtain
    separation.

    Thanks for looking.

    Rich
     
    Rich, May 20, 2005
    #1
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  2. Rich

    Paul Cassel Guest

    Try Aero Kroil.
     
    Paul Cassel, May 20, 2005
    #2
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  3. Aluminum cylinders will corrode onto the long steel cylinder studs
    which also rust. You can drip penetrating oil down the studs and
    hopefully it will loosen the cylinders enough to pull them off. A
    problem occurs when the cylinders move just 1/8th of an inch and stick
    again. Push the cylinder back down and hope that the base gaskets keeps
    the next dose of penetrating oil from going down into the crankcase,
    carrying dirt and rust with it...
     
    krusty kritter, May 20, 2005
    #3
  4. Rich

    SAMMMM Guest

    you really sure that you have all the bolts out, even the little hidden
    ones?
    check between the cylinders, at the parting line .
    some engines tuck a wee one in.
    good luck, sammmmm
     
    SAMMMM, May 22, 2005
    #4
  5. Speaking of hammering on things, you can drip some penetrating oil down
    around the cylinder studs and then use two nuts to double nut the
    threaded end of the studs. Use a nut that you can afford to throw away
    for the top nut...

    Tighten the two nuts together so the top nut doesn't thread all the way
    into the stud, leave one or more threads exposed...

    *Lightly* tap on the top nut to set up vibration in each stud...

    Then see if the cylinder doesn't move easily...

    Another idea is to drip penetrating oil down around the studs and hold
    a vibrating electric sander (without sandpaper, of course) against the
    cylinder...
     
    krusty kritter, May 22, 2005
    #5
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