1985 honda magna v30

Discussion in 'Motorbike Technical Discussion' started by Seamus, Oct 5, 2006.

  1. Seamus

    Seamus Guest

    I've got a magna v30 that won't start it's getting fuel and the coils
    plugs and wires all check out and the spark is good. I've read the
    clymer manual as to how to remove the carbs but there must be something
    missing the carbs won't budge and I'm not one to force out parts. I
    know that manual often leaves out important information so if any of
    you have ever done this are there any bolts other than the rubber
    sleeves attatching the carbs to the intake to loosten prior to being
    able to remove the carbs. also what is the proper spark plug gap.

    thanks in advance
    Jim
     
    Seamus, Oct 5, 2006
    #1
    1. Advertisements

  2. Seamus

    Mike Freeman Guest

    Which is why I recommend exhausting all other possible problems before you
    pull the carbs.

    When did the bike run last? How old is the battery? Are you sure the
    kill-switch isn't flipped to "off"? Is the gas fresh?
     
    Mike Freeman, Oct 5, 2006
    #2
    1. Advertisements

  3. Seamus

    B-12 Guest

    Your idle jets are probably plugged up because the gasoline in the
    float bowls has evaporated and turned into gum and varnish. The float
    valves are probably stuck for the same reason. I have described how to
    squirt aerosol carburetor cleaner down the fuel hose about a bazillion
    times in this group, so you can google for those messages.

    You can spray aerosol carburetor cleaner like Berryman B-12 Choke and
    Carburetor Cleaner on the rubber boots and it will soften them and make
    the rubber swell up a bit. It goes back to the old, hardened state when
    the carb cleaner evaporates. Squirt carburetor cleaner around the
    ends of the rubber carburetor boots so it will penetrate. You can
    eventually work the carbs off the heads.
     
    B-12, Oct 5, 2006
    #3
  4. Seamus

    Seamus Guest

    Here's the story:
    I got the bike and the reserve tank was plugged got that fixed and the
    bike running at idle until I noticed (big dummy I am) that there was no
    coolent at all in the bike so I shut off. After that I couldn't get it
    running again. So new battery, new gas, kill switch on. I'm pretty
    sure now that it's fouled plugs due to the various attempts of getting
    it started. So all of your help is appreciated and I'll have another
    go at it on my days off.

    Thanks much
    Jim
     
    Seamus, Oct 5, 2006
    #4
  5. Seamus

    B-12 Guest

    Spark plugs do sometimes seem to mysteriously quit firing when a
    motorcycle sits unridden for a long time. I suspect that it may have
    something to do with internal condensation and the high voltage leaks
    away to ground before it has a chance to
    build up high enough to jump the gap.

    But, it's easy enough to pull the spark plugs and hook up the wires and
    ground the plugs and spin the engine and see if you get spark.

    Starting an engine requires that there is fuel and air and compression
    and a spark (duh!).

    But motorcycle engines are a bit of a special case because the ignition
    systems tend to put out rather low voltage so the spark plug gap is
    small. And,.the EPA wants a clean atmosphere for kids and small animals
    and ferns to breathe, so the carburetor idle misture screws are set
    very lean and the carburetors are sealed at the factory.

    If you get gum and varnish in the idle jets and idle ports, a burnable
    mixture *never* passes through the small gap of the spark plug, and the
    engine doesn't start.

    So, cleaning up the carbuertors on a regular basis is absolutely
    necessary.

    I recommend running 4 or 5 ounces of Berryman B-12 Choke and Carburetor
    Cleaner through a full tank of gas at least twice a year to keep those
    tiny idle jets and ports cleaned out.

    And, your current non-starting problem might also be solved by hand
    choking the engine, i.e., remove the airbox and filter and cover the
    intakes of the carburetors with four of your hands while you use the
    other two hands to pull the clutch lever in, work the throttle and
    starter button.

    What, you're not Spiderman?

    Cover the inlet mouths of the carburetors with duct tape and just leave
    about 1/8th of an inch of opening while you try to start the engine.

    Don't use the starting enrichener mechanism which is called a "choke".
    It's not a real choke, it's a passage that bypasses the throttle
    butterflies. The starting enrichener doesn't work very well after a
    motorcycle has sat unridden for a year or two and hand choking is
    required to get gasoline up into the idle passages for starting.
     
    B-12, Oct 5, 2006
    #5
    1. Advertisements

Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.