1969 Honda CL350 Doesn't Go Above 40mph

"nomorespameventhoughthejapanesespamgivesmeachuckle"

I suppose you that if you could find a platinum plug (one of those 100k
mile ones) with the right dimensions you could look for an adhesive
suitable for gluing it in permanently. I'm sure such an adhesive exists
(or could be made), but I don't know what it is. Whatever it is, it
needs to stick to steel and aluminum, not to drip, be conductive, resist
the relevant temperatures, etc. I'd start with aircraft specialty supply
places, I guess.

Well, to guarantee it, you take the head off and tap it, put the
heli-coil (or time-sert, mentioned by Mark Olson) in and clean all the
chips off before re-installing the head. If you don't want to go that
far, you do what Mark Olson said: grease the tap, clean it often, and
use compressed air to blow things out afterwards. You also hope nothing
gets wedged in there (I don't know how likely it would be).

--
Later,
John



'indiana' is a 'nolnn' and 'hoosier' is a 'solkk'. Indiana doesn't solkk.

 

nomorespameventhoughthejapanesespamgivesmeachuckle

In theory, you need to take the head right off to recut or Helicoil the
thread.

In practice, it *can* be done in situ if you are very careful. After the
job's done, use gaffer tape to attach a pipe to the end of a vacuum
cleaner nozzle and stick it down the plughole to suck up any swarf that
may have dropped in.

And your b-i-l is a klutz.

It gets worse.

 

Don't even think about it.

 

That was supposed to be a joke, but I only remembered the smiley _after_
posting. So, for the record, the above is an incredibly stupid idea, as
ToG implies. Don't do it.

--
Later,
John



'indiana' is a 'nolnn' and 'hoosier' is a 'solkk'. Indiana doesn't solkk.

 

"nomorespameventhoughthejapanesespamgivesmeachuckle"

That could be exhaust backfiring, can be caused by unburned fuel getting
into the exhaust. The carbs are misadjusted or have a problem.

Try a hand impact tool, the kind you hit with a hammer, before you try
drilling, if you can fit it down there. Sometimes there's enough of a
screwhead left that these will get them out. I would be inclined if that
doesen't work to use a large bit and just drill enough to make the head
of the screw come off. Then remove the cover and you should have enough
of the screw left sticking up to be able to use a stud remover to get it
out.

Ted

 

Do you have to stock pipes? Stock on a '68 and '69 CL350 are 2 into 1
with a single muffler. there are two outlets on the muffler, but you
can plug one completely and exhaust from both cylinders will come out
the unplugged pipes. Because of this, it can be hard to tell if both
cylinders are actually firing evenly. The stock '68 and '69 2 into 1
pipes are less restrictive, a bit louder and have more power than the
later 2 into 2.

I wouldn't worry about trying to find air filters like the ones you
described they aren't the stock one anyway. They sound more like the SL
filters. I'd just get anything that will fit. You may have to re-jet
though.

The idle jet on the CV carbs on this bike is very small. The whole jets
screws out with a slot screw driver, and the passage is miniscule. If
you can't see through it, it's not clean. A very very thin wire can
help clear it.

On carb adjustment, the Haynes manual says to adjust the idle screws
until it's idling from 1000 to 1200 and the pressure is equal in both
pipes, then turn one carb's mixture in or out until the rpms are as
high as they will go. Reset the idle speed, then adjust the mixture in
the other carb the same way, and adjust the idle speed one last time.

The spark plugs should only be torqued to 12 lbs. Thread them by hand
so you don't strip them out.

Did you check compression in both cylinders?